based on the book:
[[dokumen.pub_the-emperor-of-scent-a-story-of-perfume-obsession-and-the-last-mystery-of-the-senses-9781588362605-1588362604.mobi]]

an index of molecules, perfumes,. frequencies, scent descriptions, correlations, and raw evidence:
[[Emperor of Scent Database.xlsx]]
The Emperor of Scent — Database
Source: Chandler Burr, The Emperor of Scent (2003). Extracted from the book's full text.
Scope: every odorant molecule, scent description, perfume, and vibrational frequency mentioned in the book.
Sheet Contents Rows
Molecules_Odorants Odorant molecules, chemical compounds & natural odor materials with scent profiles, vibrational frequencies, associated perfumes, and evidence 425
Perfumes_Fragrances Named commercial fragrances & perfume houses with scent profiles, key molecules, perfumer/house, and evidence 169
Vibrational_Frequencies Numeric wave numbers / frequencies with associated bonds, molecules, and scents (core of Turin's vibration theory) 62
Scent_Descriptors Distinctive odor descriptors and scent phrases with associated molecules/perfumes and evidence 631
Correlations Cross-references: molecule <-> frequency <-> scent <-> perfume relationships 953
Raw_Evidence All raw extracted mentions (one row per mention) with chunk reference and verbatim excerpt 1641
Methodology
1. Full text extracted from the .mobi ebook (117 chunks) and processed with LLM structured extraction.
2. Entities were normalized (case/whitespace-insensitive), deduplicated, and merged across all chunks.
3. 'confidence' = explicit (directly stated in the text) vs inferred (connected from context by the extractor).
4. 'evidence_excerpt' is a verbatim quote from the book supporting each row.
5. Only content present in the book is included — no external chemistry knowledge was imported.
6. Chunk indices map to sequential ~5000-character segments of the book text.
Molecules Odorants
molecule aliases chemical_class scent_profile vibrational_frequency associated_perfumes mention_count confidence chapters_chunks evidence_excerpt all_excerpts
sulfur S; S; sulfur atoms; brimstone; SH; Sulphur; the sulfur atom; sulphur Chemical element; Element; Element; constituent of sulfur–hydrogen bond; Element; sulfur-containing material; element; element in Oxane’s ring; element/atom Associated with rotten-egg odor; the text says the nose identifies sulfur in that smell.; Associated with the smell of boiled onion and with the stinking decaborane.; Associated with the sulfurous smell of H2S; Boranes are predicted to smell like sulfur; “satanic” odor is associated with brimstone; Its odor is presented as subjectively perceived differently by different people; Predicted scent ass 2500; 2500 wave number; Not stated; The S-H bond is stated to vibrate at 2500 wave number; The sulfur–hydrogen bond vibrates at wave number 2500 None mentioned; None stated 16 explicit 4,8,10,23,24,26,28,29,40,42,53,64,104,106,113,114 a six-membered ring with an Oxygen and a Sulfur a six-membered ring with an Oxygen and a Sulfur | When you encounter “rotten egg” smell, you know there’s Sulfur in there. | Wrinkling your nose at that  sulfur smell  is an atomic analysis absolutely diagnostic of Sulfur and Hydrogen atoms. | Sulfur, everyone knows, smells like hard-boiled egg yolk | if boranes smelled like Sulfur he would be over the moon | all boranes smell like Sulfur, everyone knew that | humans never, ever mistake Sulfur (SH) for Oxygen (OH) when we smell them. (Otherwise vodka would sometimes smell of rotten eggs.) | “a wave number of 2500 for both Sulfur and borane” | he decided on the evil-smelling little molecule H2S, which stank of classic Sulfur. | The paper had the sulfur = 2500 = boranes section. | Boranes should smell like Sulfur | He held out a bottle. The man sniffed. It smelled of Sulfur. | it turns out to smell like Sulfur | You may smell Sulfur differently from the way I smell Sulfur, he says. | which meant it smelled like Sulfur | It didn’t smell of Sulfur.
boranes B-H molecules; B-H; Decaborane is mentioned in the surrounding context; borane; exotics Boranes; Chemical compounds containing B-H bonds; described as rocket propellants; borane compounds; boranes; boranes; inorganic chemical compounds; compounds of boron and hydrogen A generic borane is discussed in relation to a sulfur-like odor.; A super-powerful, revolting smell; described as stinking and sulfur-smelling.; Expected to smell like sulfur; reported to smell “satanic,” associated with brimstone; Peculiarly repulsive odor; extremely poisonous; Predicted to smell like sulfur.; Predicted to smell of sulfur.; Smell like sulfur; associated with rotten eggs; The text 2500; Approximately 2550 cm-1; Around 2550 wave number; B-H vibration is somewhat below 3000 and approximately overlaps the S-H vibration at 2500; The text refers to “vibrational numbers” but gives no numeric frequency.; Wave number 2500, associated with a B-H vibration None stated 14 explicit 2,24,25,26,28,33,42,53,73,90,104,113,115,116 “You smell boranes instantly” “You smell boranes instantly” | boranes should smell like Sulfur | Boranes are compounds of boron and hydrogen | all boranes smell like Sulfur, everyone knew that | We just recognize a bunch of curves and nooks, add them up, and get borane’s hideous sulfury smell. | boranes do smell like sulfurs. Fun, what? | The paper had the sulfur = 2500 = boranes section. | Boranes should smell like Sulfur | the boranes and isotopes and so on were just that, facts that only Turin’s theory could explain | The boranes too deadly. | the boranes and Sulfur at 2500 | he’d use a super-powerful, revolting smell: boranes. Now that was a smell. | boranes should smell of Sulfur because of their virtually identical vibrational frequencies, ≈2550 cm-1. | the recipe for Chanel No. 5, the vibrational numbers of boranes, Blitz, and Malcolm Dyson
musk Musks; None stated Musk odor material; Natural odor material / perfume material; musk; named natural odor material; natural odor material; odor class A thick, incredibly complex, darkish musk forms part of the odor of Turin’s laboratory; Cashmeran is technically classed as a musk, though its detailed odor is described as sweet, musty, camphorlike, fruity, and velvety; Described as being in the base of L’Air du Temps.; Musky and animalic; described as a classic base.; Odor character category used in the test of Quest Research Molecules.; Part of None stated Ambretone; L’Air du Temps.; Modern Calone perfumes; Musk Tea; Brut; Perfume chemists’ molecules and bottles of perfumes are also present in the laboratory odor, but no specific perfume is named 12 explicit 4,7,24,28,42,44,71,78,79,80,85,110 Technically classed as a musk, it is actually a peculiar combination of a transparent sweet note... a musty, wet-concrete note with camphorlike feel, and a fruity, blackberries note Technically classed as a musk, it is actually a peculiar combination of a transparent sweet note... a musty, wet-concrete note with camphorlike feel, and a fruity, blackberries note | Wonderful molecules called nitro musks | a thick, incredibly complex, darkish musk | it smelled of musk | like a blend of jasmine and musk | If he wanted to calculate the vibrations of a musk, MOPAC would take five minutes | Wet concrete and musk with a fruity, spicy note. Called Cashmeran. | you were hard put to smell anything except musk, and a pretty sterilized musk at that | It may carry sort of the same top notes, that musk in the base... | Turin would have to tell him which of these molecules were woods, which musks, and which ambers. | Ambretone for one, a musk that smelled quite nice and was even more nicely profitable. | An absolutely classic base, the animalic
aldehydes C4, C5, C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, C12 aldehydes Aldehyde; Aldehydes; Aldehydic materials; aldehyde; aldehyde chemical class; aldehydes Aldehydes below seven or eight carbons smelled bad; even-numbered aldehydes smelled like mandarin orange, while odd-numbered aldehydes smelled like smoky candles. The even aldehydes were used in Chanel No. 5.; Described in the context of a fruity aldehydic perfume base; Powdery and white in the context of Chanel No. 22.; Their smells alternated according to their alternating vibrations. Alternating vibrations mentioned, but no numeric frequency given Chanel No. 22; proposed Chanel No. 22–After Eight hybrid; Chanel No. 5; Chanel No. 5; Chanel No. 22; White Linen; Image by Cerruti; Miss Dior knockoff soap base; Dioressence 11 explicit 16,17,37,43,45,46,47,61,78,88,94 the legendary perfumer Ernest Beaux had been messing around with aldehydes the legendary perfumer Ernest Beaux had been messing around with aldehydes | Tipped pitchers of aldehydes into Chanel No. 5. | Dioressence was created from a cheap Miss Dior soap knockoff base, chypric, fruity aldehydic, plus a giant cube of rancid whale vomit. | all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange. But all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles. | The aldehyde finding was only getting stronger. | Back to London, and the lab, and confirming the aldehyde data. | The key to the Chanel No. 5 mystery was clearly that the aldehyde’s smells alternated according to their alternating vibrations, and not to their shapes. | This evidence, 3 simply dismissed out of hand—the enantiomer experiment, the metal carbonyls, the aldehydes, everything. | a background of Chanel No. 22’s powdery aldehydes | there’s a receptor for the specific shape of aldehydes | Dihydromyrcenol, ambrox, and aldehydes.
vanilla Natural vanilla Natural flavor/odor material; named natural odor material Associated with a candy-floss note through ethylmaltol.; Implied as part of the low-calorie banana-float character of Vanilla Fields; The scent reproduced by combining benzaldehyde and guaiacol vibrations.; Used as a sweet vanilla note; in one comparison, vanilla produces crème caramel.; Vanilla odor; the source is specified as the island of Réunion.; Vanilla; no further scent description is given Molinard’s Habanita; Petite Chérie by Annick Goutal; Shalimar; Big Vanilla; Vanilia by L’Artisan Parfumeur; Vanilla Fields 8 explicit 65,74,75,77,93,94,111,115 he’d made of them a mixture with a lovely vanillin smell! he’d made of them a mixture with a lovely vanillin smell! | Habanita is based on vetiver ... and vanilla. | Howard Skempton is writing a concerto for accordion, oboe, and strings based on vanilla and vetiver | Vanilla Fields is a low-calorie banana float | And were the vetiver and vanilla audible in the piece? “Absolutely. Absolutely.” | And then Petite Chérie has natural vanilla from the island of Réunion | “When I use vanilla, I get crème caramel. When Jacques uses vanilla, he gets Shalimar.” | first to associate vanilla and the candy-floss note of ethylmaltol in Vanilia
Acetophenone H-acetophenone; H version; H-acetophenone; regular acetophenone; deuterated acetophenone; nondeuterated acetophenone Perfume molecule; odorant A pungent, sweet odor in dilution resembling hawthorn or harsh orange blossom; flowery, coumarin-like (haylike), warm, slightly animal, powerful. The regular H version is described in the experiment as slightly gluey, like artists’ rubber gum, with a toluene smell.; Compared with its deuterated form; the two were reported to smell different.; The difference in smell between acetophenone and its is Used by perfumers for an orange-blossom effect; sold by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). 8 explicit 68,69,70,89,90,104,105,107 Arctander describes it as “a pungent, sweet odor in dilution resembling hawthorn or harsh orange blossom type.” Arctander describes it as “a pungent, sweet odor in dilution resembling hawthorn or harsh orange blossom type.” | He knew H-acetophenone’s smell perfectly by memory | “He sent Short a description of the different acetophenone smells” | the two acetophenone molecules (same shape) smelled different | he really wanted to take them something to smell, maybe the acetophenone and its isotope, but no, the difference in smell between the two was too subtle. | I compared acetophenone with acetophenone-D8. | If you can give a single reason that acetophenone and its isotope bind differently because of their Shape, I would be most grateful. | He watches this and thinks about the acetophenone and its deuterated version
hydrogen H; H; Hs; H; Hydrogen atoms; H; regular hydrogen Element; Element, as described in the text; Element; hydrogen isotope context; Element; isotope context; element; element/atom None stated; associated with a sulfur smell when bonded to sulfur CH vibration is contrasted at 3000 with 2200 after deuterium substitution.; None stated None stated 7 explicit 8,10,24,25,68,89,104 the vast majority of common smellable molecules are built of only five: Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Sulfur. the vast majority of common smellable molecules are built of only five: Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Sulfur. | Wrinkling your nose at that  sulfur smell  is an atomic analysis absolutely diagnostic of Sulfur and Hydrogen atoms. | Hydrogen atoms form stable bridges between other atoms | Boranes are compounds of boron and hydrogen | Take Hydrogen (H). The simplest of elements | take out Hydrogens, put in Deuteriums | from 3000 to 2200
decaborane B10H14; Normal decaborane Borane; Borane (inferred from the text’s later reference to “boranes”); Borane; described in the text as an isotope-related compound; borane Associated with a sulfur smell.; Boiled onion; Peculiarly repulsive odor; extremely poisonous; Smells like boiled onion and sulfur; described as a stinking, sulfur-smelling beast.; Smells like boiled onion; described as an onion-smelling poison; Smells like sulfur.; The normal and deuterated forms were initially expected to smell the same, but the deuterated material was reported to smell complete 2500; Approximately 2550 cm-1; its boron-hydrogen vibrations are described as about 2500 cm-1.; Associated with the B-H vibration at wave number 2500 7 explicit 25,26,33,104,113,114,115 decaborane, B10H14 decaborane, B10H14 | It smells like boiled onion, Luca. | some SH molecules didn’t smell like his decaborane (“Boiled onion, Luca!” Krenacs had proclaimed) | I found a stable borane, decaborane. As predicted... it turns out to smell like Sulfur. | ‘It smells like boiled onion, Luca!,’ which meant it smelled like Sulfur. | He says they smell completely different. The entire lab is amazed. | It is the fully deuterated equivalent of decaborane (B10H14)... boranes should smell of Sulfur because of their virtually identical vibrational frequencies, ≈2550 cm-1.
Vetiver Natural odor material; Natural odor material/raw material; grass; its roots provide an oil Associated with the supergreen character of khus.; Described as uncompromising, stoic, discreet, distant, perfectly clear, and proud in its solitude; it should be worn muted.; Vetiver; no further scent description is given. Molinard’s Habanita; Vetiver by Guerlain 6 explicit 13,74,75,92,93,110 One of the rare perfumes so named that do not betray the character of this uncompromising raw material, Vetiver is a temperament as much as it is a perfume. One of the rare perfumes so named that do not betray the character of this uncompromising raw material, Vetiver is a temperament as much as it is a perfume. | Habanita is based on vetiver (a grass from the Caribbean; its roots provide an oil that contains, among other things, a molecule called vetiverol) and vanilla. | Howard Skempton is writing a concerto for accordion, oboe, and strings based on vanilla and vetiver | he always pronounces vetiver Frenchly | And were the vetiver and vanilla audible in the piece? “Absolutely. Absolutely.” | khus, a sort of supergreen made, Quraysh tells him, of vetiver
oxygen O; OH Homonuclear diatomic gas; element; element in Oxane’s ring; element/atom Odorless; humans never mistake its smell for Sulfur 5 explicit 4,8,10,28,106 a six-membered ring with an Oxygen and a Sulfur a six-membered ring with an Oxygen and a Sulfur | the vast majority of common smellable molecules are built of only five: Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Sulfur. | This molecule has an Oxygen atom in it! | humans never, ever mistake Sulfur (SH) for Oxygen (OH) when we smell them. | Compounds which do not have partial charges are odorless. Homonuclear diatonic gases like oxygen, for instance.
nickelocene nickel burger; nickel burger; nickel metallocene Metallocene; organometallic compound Does not smell of camphor despite being nearly the same shape as ferrocene; Its odor is described only as different from ferrocene; no specific odor descriptor is given.; Mentioned in the context of arguments about what determines smell; no specific odor is given.; Nasty chemical-oily smell; Nasty chemical-oily smell. No numeric frequency given; the text refers to its strongest vibrational mode involving internal motion of the metal ion between two rings.; Not stated None mentioned 5 explicit 39,40,41,89,101 The nickel burger (nickelocene) had a nasty chemical-oily smell. The nickel burger (nickelocene) had a nasty chemical-oily smell. | a sniff of the nickel burger (nickelocene) confirmed that it had a nasty chemical-oily smell | Space-filling models of ferrocene (left) and nickelocene (right) showing that the two molecules have virtually identical shapes (and very different odors). | I told the group about ferrocene and nickelocene. | nickelocene—also round, in fact with virtually the identical shape of ferrocene—does not smell of camphor.
ferrocene iron burger; iron burger; iron metallocene Metallocene; organometallic compound Camphor smell.; Camphoraceous; Definite camphor smell; Its odor is described only as different from nickelocene; no specific odor descriptor is given.; Mentioned in the context of arguments about what determines smell; no specific odor is given. No numeric frequency given; the text refers to its strongest vibrational mode involving internal motion of the metal ion between two rings.; Not stated None mentioned 5 explicit 39,40,41,89,101 The iron burger (ferrocene) did indeed smell of camphor The iron burger (ferrocene) did indeed smell of camphor | the iron burger (ferrocene) ‘a definite camphor smell!!!’ | Space-filling models of ferrocene (left) and nickelocene (right) showing that the two molecules have virtually identical shapes (and very different odors). | I told the group about ferrocene and nickelocene. | Ferrocene—smells camphoraceous—is more or less round.
carbon C; C; pure Carbon Element; one of the three stated forms is C60; element; element/atom Not stated; Smells different from Silicon; the difference is described as perceptible but not necessarily large Not stated None mentioned 4 explicit 8,10,40,106 Somewhere in microspace, a Carbon atom approaches a Nitrogen atom. Somewhere in microspace, a Carbon atom approaches a Nitrogen atom. | the electrons that bond Carbon to Hydrogen vibrate, shrieking, at 2900 or so | There are only three forms of pure carbon: graphite, diamond, and C60. | The red is Carbon, orange is Silicon.
dihydromyrcenol Associated with a nutmeg effect.; citrus-lime Common in imitations of Cool Water, Van Cleef, Drakkar Noir, and Azzaro pour Homme; said to be on the way out.; Drakkar Noir; Cool Water; Image by Cerruti 4 explicit 17,79,94,111 Pumped dihydromyrcenol, a citrus-lime, into the engine blocks of Drakkar Noir and Cool Water. Pumped dihydromyrcenol, a citrus-lime, into the engine blocks of Drakkar Noir and Cool Water. | Dihydromyrcenol and ambroxan are, I am told, on the way out. | Dihydromyrcenol, ambrox, and aldehydes. | “Dihydromyrcenol?” ... “It’s the nutmeg effect.”
acetone Nail-polish remover Carbonyl-containing molecule; the text says it is “nothing but carbonyl”; compound Described as smelling of nothing at all by Mrs. Rippard; the text also states that acetone normally smells strongly of nail-polish remover.; Nail-polish-remover odor; proposed as a carbonyl vibration to add to mint carvone. Associated with the pure carbonyl vibration at 1800 by the experimental analogy.; Its carbonyl vibration is referenced as around wave number 700 None mentioned 4 explicit 25,30,38,59 ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde | Which, when you buy it in those little glass bottles, is basically a molecule called acetone. And acetone happens to be nothing but carbonyl. | a carbonyl (same as the acetone), which vibrated at around wave number 700 | “Can you smell acetone?” ... acetone smelled of . . . nothing at all. Nothing. (It’s acetone that smells, strongly, of nail-polish remover.)
jasmine Natural floral material; named natural odor material; natural odor material Expensive jasmine; Grasse jasmine is part of Folavril’s fruity-floral character.; Starts wonderfully, then becomes “pure aldehyde soap.”; jasmine scent; jasmine-like; part of a blend with musk Joy by Jean Patou; Folavril; Rebecca is described as having a peony-and-jasmine effect. 4 explicit 28,42,94,110 the scents of jasmine and freshly baked bread are . . . different structural groups the scents of jasmine and freshly baked bread are . . . different structural groups | like a blend of jasmine and musk | Joy is £150 to £200 per kilo because it has 10 percent Bulgarian rose, the real thing. And an expensive jasmine. | the jasmine starts wonderfully and then descends into pure aldehyde soap
Ambergris Whale equivalent of a fur ball; rancid whale vomit Natural odor material; Natural odor material; described as mostly oily A more finished, smoother version of isopropyl alcohol; described as ambergris-smelling; Ambergris smells; discussed in connection with tunneling spectra.; Marine, sealike, slightly sweet, ultrasmooth; develops an incredibly complex olfactory result after floating and sun exposure; Smells of ambergris; the passage refers to four different ambergris-smelling molecules. Dioressence; Chanel's ambergris needs 4 explicit 37,101,104,105 It’s a very peculiar smell, marine, sealike, slightly sweet, and ultrasmooth. It’s a very peculiar smell, marine, sealike, slightly sweet, and ultrasmooth. | Take ambergris, which smells like a more finished, smoother version of isopropyl alcohol. | returns to the ambergris smells he mentioned earlier | He heads doggedly back to the central narrative and the four ambergris smells. “You show these molecules to fragrance chemists,” he says, “and they tend to sit up.” Why? Because they all smell of ambergris, are shaped differently, and . . . all have the same vibrations.
C11 C11 aldehyde Aldehyde; Aldehyde (inferred from the surrounding reference to “the aldehyde”); aldehyde (contextual; the text identifies the group as part of an “aldehyde finding”) Its smell is part of an alternating pattern associated with alternating vibrations.; Like coconut oil; harsher. Not specified Chanel No. 5 (inferred contextual association); Rebecca; Chanel No. 5 4 explicit 45,46,47,110 Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. | comparing C9 with C10 and then C11 | Your eagle eye will notice a change in the histogram for C11. | Quraysh says, “Coconut oil.” Harsher.
rose Synthetic rose; rose note Synthetic floral odor material; natural odor material Described as “very peculiar.”; Not specifically described.; Rose odor; the text emphasizes that a recognizable rose scent requires costly materials.; Tocade’s rose note is slightly iridescent-metallic. Joy by Jean Patou; a proposed Fragonard animalic rose perfume; Tocade 4 explicit 78,94,109,110 Tocade’s rose note is slightly iridescent-metallic Tocade’s rose note is slightly iridescent-metallic | Joy is £150 to £200 per kilo because it has 10 percent Bulgarian rose, the real thing. | He narrows his eyes, visually strafes bottles on top of bottles, stops on a rose. ... “Very peculiar. Very peculiar.” | Quraysh shows Turin a synthetic rose
amber amber note; ambers; reference amber; standard amber natural odor material; odor material Givaudan's reference odor material; Intensely sweet.; Odor character category used in the test of Quest Research Molecules.; The best-quality amber is described as becoming a nice, earthy amber when it settles. Sublime by Jean Patou 4 explicit 78,80,83,109 its intensely sweet amber note decorated by cedroxide its intensely sweet amber note decorated by cedroxide | Turin would have to tell him which of these molecules were woods, which musks, and which ambers. | Which of these twenty structures is closest to Givaudan’s “reference amber,” its standard amber? | He sniffs the amber 320 again. “When it settles down, it’s actually a very nice, earthy amber.”
oudh Oud; agarwood; natural oudh; oud Natural wood-derived odor material; the text says the name refers to “wood.”; natural odor material Described by Quraysh as sweet, honey amber, and not animalic; Turin detects woody, animalic, castoreum, civet, and cedarwood aspects in different samples.; Unbelievably strong, spatially immense, incredibly complex, buttery, deep, animalic in impact, and spicy without being a spice; associated with rotten wood and fungal/organic decomposition. Abdul Aklur oudh 4 explicit 79,108,109,111 if you can make your oudh go twice as far... Instead of using ten kilos you use five. if you can make your oudh go twice as far... Instead of using ten kilos you use five. | He is looking for the rare and expensive perfume ingredient oudh. | The oudh is unbelievable. Incredibly strong, first of all. It knocks you over, clubs you like a falling stone. But its vast dimension is what astonishes. | “It’s a sweet, honey amber ... not animalic.”
mint natural odor material Minty; Paired with chocolate in a daring mint-chocolate harmony; also part of a mint-molasses character attributed to caspirene.; mint Proposed Chanel No. 22–After Eight hybrid 3 explicit 0,78,98 the exact way we smell things—anything, crushed raspberry and mint the exact way we smell things—anything, crushed raspberry and mint | I loved the mint-chocolate harmony of Bendicks candies | “if you take a thousand people and give each ten molecules and ask, ‘OK, what do these smell like?’ … everyone smells mint as, surprise, minty.”
borane boranes borane; borane; inorganic chemical compound Smells like sulfur in the comparison experiment.; smellable; its odor is detected instantly, though no specific odor descriptor is given 2500 wave number; Has the same vibration as sulfur. 3 explicit 2,29,64 “Someone hands you a molecule called a borane. You lift it to your nose. And without fail, you smell it.” “Someone hands you a molecule called a borane. You lift it to your nose. And without fail, you smell it.” | “a wave number of 2500 for both Sulfur and borane” | It was the borane. No Sulfur. ... But it had, on the other hand, the same vibration as Sulfur.
vanillin A vanilla material; pure vanillin is contrasted with “dirty” vanillin smelling of guaiacol and other impurities.; Classified under “herbal” by some smell experts; Vanilla smell; described as a vanilla odorant. Shalimar; Big Vanilla 3 explicit 3,65,111 experts on the biology of smell will put vanillin under ‘herbal.’ experts on the biology of smell will put vanillin under ‘herbal.’ | the vanilla odorant vanillin discolored soap | “Every time people run out of ideas they put in vanillin.”
carvone L carvone; left carvone; mint carvone; R carvone; caraway version; Left carvone; Right carvone; R carvone; S carvone; carvones Enantiomeric pair; Not stated L carvone smells of mint; R carvone smells of caraway.; R carvone smells of mint; S carvone smells like caraway seeds.; The Left carvone smelled of mint; the Right/caraway version smelled of caraway. 54 vibrations, or notes, for both R and S carvones; An 1800 wave-number carbonyl vibration was added to the mint carvone in the experiment.; Contains an implanted carbonyl with a wave number of 1800; in L carvone the carbonyl vibration is proposed to be unread by the receptor. None mentioned 3 explicit 11,30,57 R carvone smells of mint. But S smells like caraway seeds. Same vibrations. Different shapes. And different smells. R carvone smells of mint. But S smells like caraway seeds. Same vibrations. Different shapes. And different smells. | The L carvone smelled of mint, the R of caraway. | He’d taken the minty Left carvone and added to it an 1800 carbonyl vibration until the vibrational chord changed and the molecule suddenly smelled of caraway.
isonitriles isonitrile versions Isonitriles; chemical group; isonitriles Described as approaching the extremely nauseating smell of rotting or dead octopus.; Horrifically vile; predicted by Turin to be potent, greener, and more peppery when used in perfume nitriles.; Said to smell bad Potentially Bandit-related experimentation; proposed for violet nitrile and agrunitrile. 3 explicit 16,41,79 groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides | The only thing that approaches that is isonitriles. He grimaces. | Isonitriles smelled horrifically vile. And yet... make isonitrile versions of them. His Vibrational theory suggested, he said, that they should be potent, greener, more peppery.
esters Esters; esters Associated in context with a lovely apricot fragrance; the text does not specify which esters.; Presented as acceptable or desirable in edible smells.; fruity 3 explicit 21,42,95 but esters are OK but esters are OK | There’s a vibrational fifth in esters, you know. I’ve always thought that esters, fruity, are Mozart. | “Throw in a couple esters, some lactones, and you’re laughing.”
benzaldehyde Does not smell of vanilla by itself; its vibrations were combined with guaiacol’s to produce a mixture with a vanillin smell.; Predicted to smell like cinnamon.; bitter almonds A carbonyl and a strong 800 ring bending mode 3 explicit 38,53,65 benzaldehyde, which also smelled of bitter almonds, and which ... had the carbonyl and a stong 800 ring bending mode benzaldehyde, which also smelled of bitter almonds, and which ... had the carbonyl and a stong 800 ring bending mode | benzaldehyde and ecyclooctatetraene should smell like cinnamon | He’d been messing around, adding benzaldehyde’s vibrations to guaiacol vibrations, and—Turin announced this momentously—he’d made of them a mixture with a lovely vanillin smell!
camphor None stated Not stated Camphor smell; Camphor smell; presented as arising from a complex collection of lower-register vibrations.; Camphoraceous odor No specific vibration stated; Not stated None mentioned 3 explicit 40,101,104 One of them is reported to have a camphor smell! One of them is reported to have a camphor smell! | all molecules that smell of camphor are, theoretically, round. | camphor... is not an atom, it’s a smell that arises from a complex collection of vibrations
C10 C10 aldehyde Aldehyde; aldehyde (contextual; the text identifies the group as part of an “aldehyde finding”) Smooth, fruity. Rebecca; Chanel No. 5 3 explicit 45,46,110 Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. | comparing C9 with C10 and then C11 | Quraysh likes it. “Smooth, fruity.”
C12 C12 aldehyde Aldehyde; Aldehyde (inferred from the surrounding reference to “the aldehyde”); aldehyde (contextual; the text identifies the group as part of an “aldehyde finding”) Fruitier again.; Marks the point at which the alternating smell pattern ceases. Not specified Chanel No. 5 (inferred contextual association) 3 explicit 45,47,110 Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. Stewart meant C6, C7, C8, C9, C10, C11, and C12. | the [alternating] pattern ceases at C12. | Quraysh says, Yes, fruitier again.
NADPH Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate, reduced form; nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphates Biological electron-carrying compound; described as a kind of vitamin.; Cofactor; cofactor; described here as a battery 3 explicit 49,50,51 things called NADPHs (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphates), which are actually a kind of vitamin and which dutifully lug electrons all over the place things called NADPHs (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphates), which are actually a kind of vitamin and which dutifully lug electrons all over the place | He looked up their voltage, and found, to his great relief, that his little batteries would give each microscopic spectroscope up to about half an electron volt. | it sat on the receptor just a few short acids away from the NADPH socket
Insulin Insulins; zinc-containing insulin; zinc-free insulin; Proinsulin; species-specific insulin database entries Hormone/protein; Hormone; protein; Protein 3 explicit 51,52,53 the receptors for smell ... and the hormone . . . insulin? the receptors for smell ... and the hormone . . . insulin? | Insulin is a hormone. He’d only asked the first computer for enzymes; Blitz had looked at everything. | the zinc-binding site on insulin
Deuterium D; Ds; D; heavy hydrogen isotope Hydrogen isotope; Hydrogen isotope, as described in the text; Isotope CH vibration shifts from 3000 to 2200 when Hydrogen is replaced by Deuterium. 3 explicit 68,89,104 This Hydrogen isotope is Deuterium (D). This Hydrogen isotope is Deuterium (D). | Replacing all the Hs with Ds | Substitute, say, Deuterium for Hydrogen, and you’ve got a major shift in CH’s vibration
Karanal Named after Karen Rossiter Molecule; molecule containing a cyclic ether bridge; epoxide or dioxolane Associated with ambergris smells; said to demolish Ohloff’s rule.; Associated with bright dryness and a C-O-C note; described as having an ambivalent mothballs-rum or mint-molasses character in the proposed hybrid.; Smells of ambergris; presented as disproving Ohloff’s ambergris structure rule Tocade; Rive Gauche; proposed Chanel No. 22–After Eight hybrid 3 explicit 78,101,104 The C-O-C note in its pure state as found in Karanal. Look at Rive Gauche, brilliantly rejuvenated by a pinch of just 0.5 percent Karanal. The C-O-C note in its pure state as found in Karanal. Look at Rive Gauche, brilliantly rejuvenated by a pinch of just 0.5 percent Karanal. | Then the people at Quest discovered Karanal, which disproved Ohloff’s rule. | Karanal—a molecule named after Karen Rossiter, its discoverer—demolished Ohloff’s rule
lipids lipids rotting or rancid odor implied 2 explicit 2,42 “it’s the same lipids and proteins in your library” “it’s the same lipids and proteins in your library” | not next to the smell of rotting lipids.
civet natural extract A slight civet note detected in the oudh.; described as repulsive and hideous; a ferociously powerful extract from the butthole of a Chinese tomcat Included as an ingredient in great French perfumes, generally; no specific perfume named 2 explicit 4,111 some ingredient in it that is repulsive, like civet, this hideous and ferociously powerful extract from the butthole of a Chinese tomcat some ingredient in it that is repulsive, like civet, this hideous and ferociously powerful extract from the butthole of a Chinese tomcat | “It has a slight civet note, but really more castoreum.”
aldehyde aldehyde HC=O group Chemical group; aldehyde Examples in the text include cucumber, cumin, and lemon odors 2 explicit 4,102 Aldehyde HC=O groups can be replaced with nitriles Aldehyde HC=O groups can be replaced with nitriles | You go into a few molecules, rip out the aldehydes—an aldehyde that smells of cucumber, an aldehyde of cumin, an aldehyde of lemon—and replace them with nitriles.
nitrile CN Chemical group; nitrile; nitrile Metallic smell; when substituted for aldehydes, produces metallic cucumber, metallic cumin, and metallic lemon impressions 2 explicit 4,102 Aldehyde HC=O groups can be replaced with nitriles, which are CNs. Aldehyde HC=O groups can be replaced with nitriles, which are CNs. | The second best known is CN. A nitrile. Metallic smell. You can actually smell these atoms.
Cashmeran molecule; pure synthetic; technically classed as a musk Wet concrete and musk with a fruity, spicy note; described as a very strange smell; a transparent sweet note with no precise character; musty, wet-concrete and camphorlike; fruity blackberry note; velvet-like overall impression 2 explicit 4,71 Cashmeran, a pure synthetic. Technically classed as a musk, it is actually a peculiar combination of a transparent sweet note... a musty, wet-concrete note with camphorlike feel, and a fruity, blackberries note Cashmeran, a pure synthetic. Technically classed as a musk, it is actually a peculiar combination of a transparent sweet note... a musty, wet-concrete note with camphorlike feel, and a fruity, blackberries note | Wet concrete and musk with a fruity, spicy note. Called Cashmeran. Weirdest damn thing.
nitro musks Nitromusks Nitro musk compounds; nitro musks Gave tremendous sweetness in the original Brut.; The text says their replacement brought “safer molecules with less smells”; they were recognized as toxins by regulators. The old/original Brut 2 explicit 7,110 Wonderful molecules called nitro musks... had been used commonly for years, but the Big Boys and, more important, their regulators realized they were toxins Wonderful molecules called nitro musks... had been used commonly for years, but the Big Boys and, more important, their regulators realized they were toxins | the first one, that had a lot of nitro musks in it. It gave that tremendous sweetness.
nitrogen N element; element/atom Mentioned as an atom that the nose supposedly identifies within a molecule; no specific odor is given. 2 explicit 8,10 A sniff, and we know: “Nitrogen atoms in here,” “Sulfur atoms in here.” A sniff, and we know: “Nitrogen atoms in here,” “Sulfur atoms in here.” | Carbons that are bonded to Nitrogens we identify by smelling their metallic oily odor
methyl acetate CH3-C(=O)-O-CH3 ester Sweet-smelling, sort of ethereal, and not very long lasting Lowest note at wave number 97; top note at wave number 3004; described as having 27 vibrational notes 2 explicit 9,10 Take the simple ester named methyl acetate, CH3-C(=O)-O-CH3. (It’s a molecule with a sweet smell, sort of ethereal and not very long lasting.) Take the simple ester named methyl acetate, CH3-C(=O)-O-CH3. (It’s a molecule with a sweet smell, sort of ethereal and not very long lasting.) | Write all the notes of the vibrational chord of an entire molecule say, methyl acetate and this is what it looks like.
S-H bond Sulfur-Hydrogen bond; Sulfur-hydrogen bond Chemical bond Associated with sulfur odor under Turin’s vibrational theory; sulfurous, smelly; associated with the characteristic sulfur smell 2500 wave number; 2500 wave numbers None stated 2 explicit 10,24 the frenetic soprano of the S-H bond, Sulfur and Hydrogen... vibrating at precisely 2500 except the sulfurous, smelly S-H bond the frenetic soprano of the S-H bond, Sulfur and Hydrogen... vibrating at precisely 2500 except the sulfurous, smelly S-H bond | the S-H bond’s vibration
Boron B element 2 explicit 10,25 a Boron atom and an Oxygen atom bond to each other a Boron atom and an Oxygen atom bond to each other | Boranes are compounds of boron and hydrogen
methyl groups Methyls; methyls Chemical functional groups; chemical substituent/group Not specifically described. 2 explicit 16,110 started sticking things on it—methyl groups, ethyls, aldehydes started sticking things on it—methyl groups, ethyls, aldehydes | These things just have a couple more methyls and an aldehyde group.
sulfides Sulfide compounds; chemical group Described as “nasty” and something the olfactory system should detect and avoid.; Said to smell bad 2 explicit 16,21 groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides | confirm it’s got no nasty nitriles and no sulfides
Helional melon; watery, associated with Debussy-like fourths Escape by Calvin Klein 2 explicit 17,42 run Escape by Calvin Klein on Helional. run Escape by Calvin Klein on Helional. | The melon notes—helional, for example—strike me as the watery Debussy harmonies, the fourths.
Iso E Super nondescript woody-lemony Beautiful for Estée Lauder; Eternity by Calvin Klein 2 explicit 17,93 powered Beautiful for Estée Lauder and Calvin Klein’s Eternity with Iso E Super. powered Beautiful for Estée Lauder and Calvin Klein’s Eternity with Iso E Super. | There’s stuff at £3 a kilo, like Iso E Super, a kind of nondescript woody-lemony.
nitriles Chemical compound class; Nitrile compounds Described as “nasty” and something the olfactory system should detect and avoid. 2 explicit 21,103 They need a system that will determine instantly the chemical composition of a substance, whether it’s toxic or not, confirm it’s got no nasty nitriles They need a system that will determine instantly the chemical composition of a substance, whether it’s toxic or not, confirm it’s got no nasty nitriles | you can’t explain cyanates, thiols, nitriles, et cetera.
Sulfur–Hydrogen bond S–H bond Chemical bond Associated with the smell of hard-boiled egg; Sulfur-like or hard-boiled-egg smell 2500 2 explicit 23 the bond holding a Sulfur atom to a Hydrogen atom. It vibrated at a wave number of 2500 the bond holding a Sulfur atom to a Hydrogen atom. It vibrated at a wave number of 2500 | every time you found a wave number of 2500... you should smell hard-boiled egg
ozone chemical substance; compound The scent of ozone in lightning just before rain 2 explicit 25,71 they burned in their lab with ozone, getting a Steady-State temperature of 6,000 degrees Kelvin they burned in their lab with ozone, getting a Steady-State temperature of 6,000 degrees Kelvin | The scent of ozone in the lightning just before the rain starts pulverizing the earth
diborane B2H6 borane Peculiarly repulsive odor; extremely poisonous 2 explicit 25,26 the best known being diborane B2H6 the best known being diborane B2H6 | diborane boils at 92.5 degrees below zero Celsius
Osyrol A sandalwood smell, described as almost exactly like beta-santalol; rich and full-ranging from bottom notes to top.; Smells of sandalwood; violates three of the proposed sandalwood rules 2 explicit 27,101 The problem with Osyrol was that it smells almost exactly like beta-santalol, a sandalwood fragrance. The problem with Osyrol was that it smells almost exactly like beta-santalol, a sandalwood fragrance. | Osyrol violates the last three of them.
butanone Carbonyl-containing molecule At higher concentrations, butanone was described as having a nail-polish-remover smell, while the mixture reportedly switched from mint to caraway.; When mixed with mint carvone at the successful ratio, produced an unmistakable caraway smell. Not numerically specified; described as having a carbonyl like acetone’s.; Used as the source of the 1800 wave-number carbonyl vibration. None mentioned 2 explicit 30,57 How about butanone, which has a carbonyl like acetone’s but doesn’t vanish as fast in air?... suddenly there was an unmistakeable caraway smell. How about butanone, which has a carbonyl like acetone’s but doesn’t vanish as fast in air?... suddenly there was an unmistakeable caraway smell. | The 20 percent butanone, the carbonyl-rich potion with its nail-polish-remover smell? It still smelled of mint, they said.
ethanol pure ethanol Alcohol/solvent; alcohol; diluent “it smells of nothing” Chanel No. 19 2 explicit 36,112 At Chanel, when they have to dilute the perfume with ethanol—Jesus, ethanol! It costs nothing, and it smells of nothing! At Chanel, when they have to dilute the perfume with ethanol—Jesus, ethanol! It costs nothing, and it smells of nothing! | You put your whatever it is in pure ethanol, forget it for six months
betweenanenes betweenallenes; related chemistry Not stated; unusual ring-containing compounds No directly observed odor; Turin predicted that a hidden double bond would produce an unmistakable sweetness if detected by smell.; Not stated Not stated None mentioned 2 explicit 39,40 These rare creatures had a highly unusual structure in that they were made of two interlocking rings of Carbons and, joining the rings, a double electron bond These rare creatures had a highly unusual structure in that they were made of two interlocking rings of Carbons and, joining the rings, a double electron bond | he couldn’t find any betweenanenes
pyrazine None stated Not stated Described as present in large quantity in the coffee’s smell; no specific odor descriptor is given.; Not stated Not stated None mentioned 2 explicit 40,99 thiophene, pyrazine, pyridine thiophene, pyrazine, pyridine | He squints. He says carefully, “When I say ‘infinite,’ I mean so far as we know. ...” He lifts the coffee to his mouth, sniffs, murmurs, “Wow, lots of pyrazine.”
metallocenes “burger molecules”; molecular burgers Organometallic molecules containing different metals; organometallic compounds Different smells depending on the metal; nickelocene is chemical-oily and ferrocene is camphor-like Not stated None mentioned 2 explicit 40,42 The metallocene burgers had strikingly different vibrations because of the different metals sitting in their guts The metallocene burgers had strikingly different vibrations because of the different metals sitting in their guts | It had the enantiomers, it had the metallocenes.
banana banana skin natural odor material Banana skin in a trashcan; associated with vomit-like mixture between main course and dessert; floral banana Vanilla Fields 2 explicit 42,77 There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana | Banana skin in a trashcan. ... It’s precisely the sort of mixture between main course and dessert that would only happen in vomit.
Captopril Drug; chemical class not stated; drug for high blood pressure 2 explicit 50,52 One common piece of medical trivia that mystified doctors concerned Captopril, a drug for high blood pressure. One common piece of medical trivia that mystified doctors concerned Captopril, a drug for high blood pressure. | Which fit exactly with the side effect of Captopril.
Zinc Metal; metal 2 explicit 50,52 When people looked at what exactly the drug was doing down on the molecular level, they saw that it was binding like crazy to a metal: zinc. When people looked at what exactly the drug was doing down on the molecular level, they saw that it was binding like crazy to a metal: zinc. | There was the zinc atom, and then the sequence that was binding it. Yep, the zinc binding sequence was CGSHL.
CGSHL Binding sequence; chemical class not stated; Five-amino-acid sequence 2 explicit 51,52 It was only five amino acids long, CGSHL It was only five amino acids long, CGSHL | Yep, the zinc binding sequence was CGSHL. Which was exactly the same on the olfactory receptor.
sodium valproate 2 explicit 59,60 “Glenis Scadding acted lightning-fast last night and prescribed sodium valproate.” “Glenis Scadding acted lightning-fast last night and prescribed sodium valproate.” | “Dr. Scadding tried to reduce the sodium valproate dose”
pepper natural odor material A jar of pepper was smelled as part of the recovered ability to smell ordinary objects.; Proposed in combination with strawberries in an epoxide composition. 2 explicit 60,78 “She smelled water, opened a tin of pepper” “She smelled water, opened a tin of pepper” | like strawberries plus pepper (phenylethylglycidate, another epoxide + elemi)
guaiacol Associated with the smell of impure or “dirty” vanillin.; Does not smell of vanilla by itself; its vibrations were combined with benzaldehyde’s to produce a mixture with a vanillin smell. 2 explicit 65,111 neither of which smelled of vanilla at all by itself neither of which smelled of vanilla at all by itself | “The first vanillins were all yellow with rubbish ... smelt of guaiacol and everything.”
Heavy water D2O Water made with deuterium 2 explicit 68,105 Heavy water (D2O) is just H2O whose Hs have been replaced with heavy Ds Heavy water (D2O) is just H2O whose Hs have been replaced with heavy Ds | There are significant differences in chemical properties between isotopes. Heavy water is poisonous.
Deuterated acetophenone D-acetophenone; acetophenone isotope version; the deuterated version of acetophenone Deuterated odorant; perfume molecule Fruity instead of toluene; lighter. 2 explicit 68,107 It smelled—fruity instead of toluene, lighter. Different. It smelled—fruity instead of toluene, lighter. Different. | He watches this and thinks about the acetophenone and its deuterated version
Coumarin Haylike; referenced as a comparison for acetophenone’s odor.; No separate odor description given; listed as contributing to Angel’s refreshingly toxic effect. Mugler’s Angel 2 explicit 68,78 The effect in perfume is generally a flowery one, coumarin-like [haylike] The effect in perfume is generally a flowery one, coumarin-like [haylike] | at once edible (chocolate) and refreshingly toxic (caspirene, coumarin)
Cedarwood Cedar; deuterated cedarwood (hypothetical/example) Natural odor material A woody aspect that helps Turin recognize the wood character of the oudh. 2 explicit 68,111 Gucci and Dior couldn’t be less interested in a deuterated cedarwood. Gucci and Dior couldn’t be less interested in a deuterated cedarwood. | “When you said cedarwood, that did it.”
D-acetophenone D-isotope; D version isotope Smells different from H-acetophenone; no specific odor descriptor is given.; more fruity and bitter-almondy; not gluey 2 explicit 69,70 It isn’t gluey at all, it’s much more fruit and bitter-almondy! It isn’t gluey at all, it’s much more fruit and bitter-almondy! | “H-acetophenone and D-acetophenone smell different.”
Calone Named after the initials of Camilli, Albert & Laloue molecule Associated with a bloodless, sterile, water-like modern perfume style; described as “a low-calorie meal served on a stainless steel tray.”; “Oysterlike”; halfway between an apple and the knife that cuts it; fruity turned up to a white heat Eau d’Issey and many imitators 2 explicit 71,78 They named it Calone, after the initials of the firm. Another molecule came out in 1980 They named it Calone, after the initials of the firm. Another molecule came out in 1980 | whose signature was Calone with backnotes of bleached florals in which you were hard put to smell anything except musk
chocolate food odor material Edible; proposed in combination with mint and Chanel No. 22’s powdery aldehydes.; Its scent is discussed in connection with chocolate releasing opiates in the brain Mugler’s Angel; proposed Chanel No. 22–After Eight hybrid 2 explicit 77,78 since chocolate releases opiates in the brain, it might be that its scent does too since chocolate releases opiates in the brain, it might be that its scent does too | Angel is brilliant, at once edible (chocolate) ... creating a perfume in which chocolate—“(without vanilla)”—met mint
benzyl salicylate A very peculiar note, almost like wintergreen oil. L’Air du Temps; L’Air du Temps. 2 explicit 79,97 There’s a lot less benzyl salicylate. It’s a very peculiar note, almost a wintergreen oil. There’s a lot less benzyl salicylate. It’s a very peculiar note, almost a wintergreen oil. | “L’Air du Temps!… It used to be so much more benzyl salicylate! They changed the formula!”
sandalwoods Sandalwood Natural woody odor material Not specifically described.; Odor category; the test asked which stereoisomers were sandalwoods 2 explicit 83,110 Which of the eight were sandalwoods? Which of the eight were sandalwoods? | Turin goes through sandalwoods
1,1-dimethylcyclohexane 1,1-dimethyl cyclohexane; 1,1-dimethyl cyclohexane; carbon twin Cyclohexane derivative; cycloalkane Camphoraceous; Camphoraceous with a tiny bit of eucalyptus. 2 explicit 91,101 The Carbon twin smelled camphoraceous with a tiny bit of eucalyptus. The Carbon twin smelled camphoraceous with a tiny bit of eucalyptus. | They are 1,1-dimethyl cyclohexane… and… you’ll smell a pretty clear difference. One is camphoraceous
1,1-dimethylsilacyclohexane 1,1-dimethyl sila cyclohexane; 1,1-dimethyl sila cyclohexane; sila twin Silicon-containing cyclohexane analogue; silacycle; silicon analogue of 1,1-dimethylcyclohexane Unpleasant chemical green; Very unpleasant green, cut grass with a nasty edge. 2 explicit 91,101 The sila twin smelled of a very unpleasant green, cut grass with a nasty edge. The sila twin smelled of a very unpleasant green, cut grass with a nasty edge. | 1,1-dimethyl sila cyclohexane… One is camphoraceous, the other is unpleasant chemical green.
diacetyl small molecule with two ketone groups butter smell 2 explicit 97,107 “Diacetyl,” says Turin. “What gives the butter smell. A very small molecule with two ketone groups.” “Diacetyl,” says Turin. “What gives the butter smell. A very small molecule with two ketone groups.” | You’re talking to people who can’t smell the difference between diacetyl and 2, 3-pentane dione.
beta-damascone Single molecule Clean floral-woody; a wry presence; dried-fruit note; very clean at high concentration; Very strong; described as almost pure beta-damascone. Claude Montana’s Parfum d’Elle 2 explicit 98,112 “Claude Montana’s Parfum d’Elle,” he says. “That’s so strong, almost pure beta-damascone.” “Claude Montana’s Parfum d’Elle,” he says. “That’s so strong, almost pure beta-damascone.” | There’s a beta-damascone, a single molecule with a clean floral-woody wittiness ... a wry presence, a dried-fruit note—very clean—at high concentration.
Timberol Molecule Associated with ambergris smells; said to demolish Ohloff’s rule after Karanal.; Smells of ambergris; presented as disproving Vlad’s rule 2 explicit 101,104 Timberol, found soon after, pulverized this rule. Timberol, found soon after, pulverized this rule. | Timberol demolished the rule after that
serotonin Water-soluble compound 2 explicit 106,109 So you’re saying you can smell serotonin. So you’re saying you can smell serotonin. | ‘You mean you can smell seratonin?’
Maltol Chemical compound Mentioned as one of the conventional vanilla-related materials.; Used to sweeten the composition 2 explicit 111,112 “It’s the usual suspects, ethyl vanillin, maltol . . .” “It’s the usual suspects, ethyl vanillin, maltol . . .” | And then I’d sweeten it with maltol.
raspberry crushed raspberry 1 explicit 0 the exact way we smell things—anything, crushed raspberry and mint the exact way we smell things—anything, crushed raspberry and mint
pourriture noble noble rot fungus Adds a fungal flavor to grapes and contributes to the character of sweet Sauternes. 1 explicit 0 There’s something called pourriture noble. Noble rot. It’s a fungus. It grows on grapes, draws the water out, concentrates the juice wonderfully, adds its own fungal flavor There’s something called pourriture noble. Noble rot. It’s a fungus. It grows on grapes, draws the water out, concentrates the juice wonderfully, adds its own fungal flavor
unnamed molecule mentioned by Guy Robert “the woman who neglects herself” 1 explicit 0 ‘Est-ce que vous avez senti some molecule or other?’ ... ‘Ça sent la femme qui se néglige.’ ‘Est-ce que vous avez senti some molecule or other?’ ... ‘Ça sent la femme qui se néglige.’
sugars sugars 1 explicit 2 “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)” “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)”
fats fats 1 explicit 2 “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)” “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)”
proteins proteins 1 explicit 2 “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)” “dead squirrels (sugars, fats, and proteins)”
raw petroleum 1 explicit 2 “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)” “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)”
sand 1 explicit 2 “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)” “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)”
silicate silicate 1 explicit 2 “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)” “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)”
fluorocarbons fluorocarbons 1 explicit 2 “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)” “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)”
borazines borazines 1 explicit 2 “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)” “raw petroleum or sand or silicate (fluorocarbons and borazines)”
chocolate’s molecules 1 explicit 2 “evolution never selected for dogs an enzyme that recognized the shape of chocolate’s molecules” “evolution never selected for dogs an enzyme that recognized the shape of chocolate’s molecules”
plastic 1 explicit 2 “as long as you don’t eat, say, plastic, for which you have no enzyme” “as long as you don’t eat, say, plastic, for which you have no enzyme”
cis-3-hexenol Cut grass 1 explicit 3 “cis-3-hexenol.” ... “Cut grass,” says Turin “cis-3-hexenol.” ... “Cut grass,” says Turin
benzonitrile Shoe polish; specifically reminiscent of round metal tins of Kiwi shoe polish Kiwi shoe polish 1 explicit 3 He picks up benzonitrile. “Shoe polish.” This structure of atoms smells overwhelmingly reminiscent of round metal tins of Kiwi shoe polish. He picks up benzonitrile. “Shoe polish.” This structure of atoms smells overwhelmingly reminiscent of round metal tins of Kiwi shoe polish.
beaver pelt oil natural odor material described as something repulsive used in great French perfumes; no specific odor description beyond the reference Included as an ingredient in great French perfumes, generally; no specific perfume named 1 explicit 4 Beaver pelt oil. Something. Beaver pelt oil. Something.
Oxane single synthetic molecule; six-membered ring containing oxygen and sulfur sweaty mango; hot sweat on ripe mango; shimmering sweat and tropical fruit with a green, marijuana-like note Used in perfumery to impart an edge and rich bloom to virtually any composition 1 explicit 4 Oxane... ‘Sweaty mango.’ ... exactly, hot sweat on ripe mango. ... a shimmering mixture of sweat and tropical fruit, with a ‘green’ marijuana-like note. Oxane... ‘Sweaty mango.’ ... exactly, hot sweat on ripe mango. ... a shimmering mixture of sweat and tropical fruit, with a ‘green’ marijuana-like note.
Vertelon single molecule mushroom liqueur; mushroom-like, simultaneously clean and dirty; associated with decay; said to clear a perfume Used in a planned mushroom-Oriental perfume 1 explicit 4 Vertelon: mushroom liqueur. Again, this complex odor you’re smelling is a single molecule. Mushrooms are at once clean and dirty; it’s a creature freshly born of decay. Vertelon: mushroom liqueur. Again, this complex odor you’re smelling is a single molecule. Mushrooms are at once clean and dirty; it’s a creature freshly born of decay.
Gardamide single molecule grapefruit and hot horses; the smell of a horse after removing the saddle 1 explicit 4 Gardamide: grapefruit and hot horses. This is the horse you get from removing the saddle after riding. Gardamide: grapefruit and hot horses. This is the horse you get from removing the saddle after riding.
violet nitrile nitrile steel cucumber 1 explicit 4 Violet nitrile: steel cucumber. Violet nitrile: steel cucumber.
tuberose natural oil; complex mixture of several hundred molecules black rubber flower; rubbery and kinky, dusted with talcum; meaty and bloodlike, reminiscent of carnations; finally a white-flower note; decorous but poisonous Fracas is described as very close in smell but made of different pieces 1 explicit 4 Tuberose: black rubber flower. This is a natural oil, a complex mixture. ... Then an almost meaty bloodlike smell reminiscent of carnations, and finally a ‘white flower.’ Tuberose: black rubber flower. This is a natural oil, a complex mixture. ... Then an almost meaty bloodlike smell reminiscent of carnations, and finally a ‘white flower.’
carnation carnations natural scent reference referenced through an almost meaty, bloodlike smell 1 explicit 4 Then an almost meaty bloodlike smell reminiscent of carnations Then an almost meaty bloodlike smell reminiscent of carnations
thyme The smell of thyme growing wild. 1 explicit 6 he set about systematically analyzing the smell of the thyme that grew wild everywhere. he set about systematically analyzing the smell of the thyme that grew wild everywhere.
ambergris tincture natural odor material 1 explicit 7 No one dared use the magnificent ambergris tincture No one dared use the magnificent ambergris tincture
iris of Florence natural odor material 1 explicit 7 or iris of Florence anymore or iris of Florence anymore
musk ambrette nitro musk 1 explicit 7 one was the molecule musk ambrette, a Swiss creation one was the molecule musk ambrette, a Swiss creation
ginger Described as very unusual; identified as an ingredient used in the fragrance Shanghai. Shanghai 1 explicit 8 He wore Shanghai, a woman’s fragrance. Ginger, very unusual. It’s one of only three fragrances I know of that use ginger. He wore Shanghai, a woman’s fragrance. Ginger, very unusual. It’s one of only three fragrances I know of that use ginger.
carbon–nitrogen double bond C=N electron bond/double bond 1 explicit 8 Which makes the two atoms now one molecule: C=N. (Read that “Carbon double bond Nitrogen.”) Which makes the two atoms now one molecule: C=N. (Read that “Carbon double bond Nitrogen.”)
nitrile groups nitrile group around 2100 wave numbers 1 explicit 10 Nitrile groups are altos, singing at around 2100. Nitrile groups are altos, singing at around 2100.
Carbon-Hydrogen bond C-H bond around 2900 wave numbers 1 explicit 10 the electrons that bond Carbon to Hydrogen vibrate, shrieking, at 2900 or so the electrons that bond Carbon to Hydrogen vibrate, shrieking, at 2900 or so
OH groups alcohol groups at the very upper limit of the wave-number scale 1 explicit 10 with the OHs and the NHs (alcohols and amines) at the very upper limit with the OHs and the NHs (alcohols and amines) at the very upper limit
NH groups amine groups at the very upper limit of the wave-number scale 1 explicit 10 with the OHs and the NHs (alcohols and amines) at the very upper limit with the OHs and the NHs (alcohols and amines) at the very upper limit
H2S 1 explicit 10 H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2. H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2.
FeH 1 explicit 10 H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2. H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2.
C3O2 1 explicit 10 H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2. H2S sings differently from FeH, whose pitches differ from C3O2.
isothiocyanate groups Nitrogen-Carbon-Sulfur bonds; N-C-S bonds isothiocyanate group mustardy 1 explicit 10 Nitrogen-Carbon-Sulfur bonds (called isothiocyanate groups) give a molecule a mustardy smell. Nitrogen-Carbon-Sulfur bonds (called isothiocyanate groups) give a molecule a mustardy smell.
amine groups NH3 amine group fishy 1 explicit 10 Amine groups (NH3) you can smell by the fishy odor they add to any molecule Amine groups (NH3) you can smell by the fishy odor they add to any molecule
nitro groups NO2 nitro group sweet ethereal, or etherlike 1 explicit 10 you smell nitro groups (NO2) as a sweet ethereal or etherlike odor you smell nitro groups (NO2) as a sweet ethereal or etherlike odor
arsine groups AsH2 arsine group cabbage 1 explicit 10 AsH2 (arsine groups) smell like cabbage. AsH2 (arsine groups) smell like cabbage.
albumin Egg white Protein 1 explicit 12 Which protein? Well, how about albumin—egg white—because, he figured, it’s the cheapest protein you can buy. Which protein? Well, how about albumin—egg white—because, he figured, it’s the cheapest protein you can buy.
candied orange peel orange-peel idea natural odor material Resinous, candied-orange-peel character. Caron’s Alpona 1 explicit 14 Caron’s Alpona juxtaposes a resinous candied-orange-peel idea with a civilized chypre base. Caron’s Alpona juxtaposes a resinous candied-orange-peel idea with a civilized chypre base.
peach and vanilla peach-vanilla natural odor materials A peach-vanilla scent used for candles. Peach-vanilla candles 1 explicit 14 peach-vanilla candles and the fabric softeners that smell of a million mythical springtimes peach-vanilla candles and the fabric softeners that smell of a million mythical springtimes
lactone lactone Milky lactone note; associated with an infant’s breath mixed with his mother’s hair spray. Rush (Gucci) 1 explicit 15 thanks to the milky lactone note, it smells like an infant’s breath mixed with his mother’s hair spray. thanks to the milky lactone note, it smells like an infant’s breath mixed with his mother’s hair spray.
cocaine Chanel No. 5 (mentioned in the anecdote about Coco Chanel) 1 explicit 16 Coco Chanel, called Coco because she threw the most fabulous cocaine parties in Paris Coco Chanel, called Coco because she threw the most fabulous cocaine parties in Paris
fluorophosphonates fluorophosphonates Said to react with absolutely everything; not used by the fragrance chemists because of extreme toxicity 1 explicit 16 the malevolent fluorophosphonates, which include sarin, a notorious chemical weapon, and which react with absolutely everything the malevolent fluorophosphonates, which include sarin, a notorious chemical weapon, and which react with absolutely everything
sarin fluorophosphonate; chemical weapon 1 explicit 16 the malevolent fluorophosphonates, which include sarin, a notorious chemical weapon the malevolent fluorophosphonates, which include sarin, a notorious chemical weapon
ethyls ethyl groups chemical substituent/group 1 explicit 16 started sticking things on it—methyl groups, ethyls, aldehydes started sticking things on it—methyl groups, ethyls, aldehydes
nitros chemical group 1 explicit 16 groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides, or to give toxicity problems, like nitros groups known to smell bad, like isonitriles and sulfides, or to give toxicity problems, like nitros
musk R-1 musk Tommy Girl 1 explicit 17 Cast musk R-1 prominently in Tommy Girl Cast musk R-1 prominently in Tommy Girl
osmanthus natural osmanthus No odor description is given; described as an expensive natural material taken straight from the flower. Nombre Noir 1 explicit 18 an extremely expensive natural osmanthus straight from the flower an extremely expensive natural osmanthus straight from the flower
damascone synthetic; “a big-stock damascone molecule” Rosy-woody with prune facets. Nombre Noir 1 explicit 18 a synthetic, a big-stock damascone molecule of rosy-woody plus prune a synthetic, a big-stock damascone molecule of rosy-woody plus prune
small heterocycles Heterocyclic compounds Described as desirable or acceptable in edible smells. 1 explicit 21 and also we like small heterocycles, those are good. and also we like small heterocycles, those are good.
big molecules Large molecules Associated with musky and woody smells and described as difficult to digest. 1 explicit 21 steer us away from big molecules because they’re hard to digest (musky, woody smells tend to be large molecules) steer us away from big molecules because they’re hard to digest (musky, woody smells tend to be large molecules)
smellable molecules odorant molecules Chemical molecules detectable by smell Their electron bonds are described as identifiable by electron spectroscopy; their molecular size is discussed in relation to odor. 1 explicit 21 he knew that smellable molecules were held together with electron bonds that were identifiable by exactly the sort of electron spectroscopy in this paper. he knew that smellable molecules were held together with electron bonds that were identifiable by exactly the sort of electron spectroscopy in this paper.
jasmine absolute not stated 1 explicit 22 jasmine absolute 15 g jasmine absolute 15 g
rose essence not stated 1 explicit 22 rose essence 12 g rose essence 12 g
alpha-methyl ionone not stated 1 explicit 22 alpha-methyl ionone 5 g alpha-methyl ionone 5 g
Galaxolide not stated 1 explicit 22 Galaxolide 10 g Galaxolide 10 g
aldehyde C10 aldehyde 1 explicit 22 aldehyde C10 2.5 g aldehyde C10 2.5 g
Carbon–Bromine bond C–Br bond Chemical bond 500 to 750 1 explicit 23 The bond gluing a Carbon atom to a Bromine atom vibrated... between 500 and 750 The bond gluing a Carbon atom to a Bromine atom vibrated... between 500 and 750
Carbon–Fluorine bond C–F bond Chemical bond 1000 to 1400 1 explicit 23 The bond welding a Carbon to a Fluorine was at 1000 to 1400 The bond welding a Carbon to a Fluorine was at 1000 to 1400
Nitrogen–Hydrogen bond N–H bond Chemical bond 3350 to 3500 1 explicit 23 the Nitrogen-Hydrogen bonds coming in at 3350 to 3500 the Nitrogen-Hydrogen bonds coming in at 3350 to 3500
Oxygen–Hydrogen bond O–H bond Chemical bond 3100 to 3700 1 explicit 23 Oxygen-Hydrogen at 3100 to 3700 Oxygen-Hydrogen at 3100 to 3700
B-H bond Boron-Hydrogen bond; B-H molecule Chemical bond Used to test whether a non-sulfur bond with a similar vibration produces a sulfur-like odor Around 2550 wave number; under 3000 None stated 1 explicit 24 B-H’s wave number came in at around 2550, more or less smack on top of the S-H bond’s vibration. B-H’s wave number came in at around 2550, more or less smack on top of the S-H bond’s vibration.
C-H bond Carbon-Hydrogen bond Chemical bond None stated 3000 wave number None stated 1 explicit 24 the C-H bond, the Carbon-Hydrogen bond, with its electron bond vibrating at wave number 3000 the C-H bond, the Carbon-Hydrogen bond, with its electron bond vibrating at wave number 3000
dicyanoacetylene compound 1 explicit 25 compounds like dicyanoacetylene, which has no hydrogen atoms at all and has three triple bonds compounds like dicyanoacetylene, which has no hydrogen atoms at all and has three triple bonds
hydrazine molecule 1 explicit 25 producing a very nice one called hydrazine, which was so civilized, it even decomposed producing a very nice one called hydrazine, which was so civilized, it even decomposed
butyl mercaptan butyl mercaptans mercaptan Intense, pervasive, penetrating, and resembling the stink of an enraged skunk; clings to clothes and skin 1 explicit 25 Butyl mercaptan spontaneously ignited when mixed with acid Butyl mercaptan spontaneously ignited when mixed with acid
ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde mercaptan compounds garlicky 1 explicit 25 He had begun playing with new compounds, ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde, which were garlicky He had begun playing with new compounds, ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde, which were garlicky
acetaldehyde compound 1 explicit 25 ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde ethyl mercaptans of acetone and acetaldehyde
dimethylamino group chemical group 1 explicit 25 got heavily into a certain dimethylamino group that he hooked to a vile mercaptan sulfur got heavily into a certain dimethylamino group that he hooked to a vile mercaptan sulfur
red fuming nitric acid RFNA nitric acid propellant 1 explicit 25 Red fuming nitric acid (RFNA), which Clark experimented with in 1945 Red fuming nitric acid (RFNA), which Clark experimented with in 1945
nitrogen dioxide NO2 gas 1 explicit 25 dense clouds of nitrogen dioxide gas dense clouds of nitrogen dioxide gas
white fuming nitric acid WFNA nitric acid propellant 1 inferred 25 The alternative to RFNA was WFNA, which had its own personality The alternative to RFNA was WFNA, which had its own personality
pentaborane B5H9 borane Peculiarly repulsive odor; extremely poisonous 1 explicit 25 pentaborane, B5H9 pentaborane, B5H9
boric acid acid 1 explicit 25 the unburned molecule would immediately shroud itself in a solid crust of boric acid the unburned molecule would immediately shroud itself in a solid crust of boric acid
hydrocarbon straight hydrocarbon hydrocarbon 1 explicit 25 its performance was below that of a straight hydrocarbon its performance was below that of a straight hydrocarbon
S-H Sulfur-Hydrogen; Sulfur-Hydrogens S-H bond/group Associated with the smell of rotten eggs 2500 1 explicit 26 The number linked two code equivalents (an S-H and a B-H borane), two completely different molecules, to one meaning: the smell of rotten eggs. The number linked two code equivalents (an S-H and a B-H borane), two completely different molecules, to one meaning: the smell of rotten eggs.
B-H B-H bond/group borane bond/group Associated with the smell of rotten eggs 2500 1 explicit 26 an S-H and a B-H borane an S-H and a B-H borane
onions natural odor material Boiled-onion odor; stated to contain Sulfur-Hydrogens 1 explicit 26 Onions and garlic contain Sulfur-Hydrogens. Onions and garlic contain Sulfur-Hydrogens.
garlic natural odor material Stated to contain Sulfur-Hydrogens 1 explicit 26 Onions and garlic contain Sulfur-Hydrogens. Onions and garlic contain Sulfur-Hydrogens.
beta-santalol Sandalwood scent; described as smelling deliciously of sandalwood. 1 explicit 27 Look at a lovely little molecule called beta-santalol, they said to him, it smells deliciously of sandalwood. Look at a lovely little molecule called beta-santalol, they said to him, it smells deliciously of sandalwood.
levo-citronellol Warm, sweet, slightly green rosy scent; occurs naturally in geraniums and is synthesized naturally by roses. 1 explicit 27 Levo-citronellol, a molecule that occurs naturally in geraniums and has a warm, sweet, slightly green rosy scent (roses synthesize it naturally). Levo-citronellol, a molecule that occurs naturally in geraniums and has a warm, sweet, slightly green rosy scent (roses synthesize it naturally).
hydrogen cyanide HCN; cyanide Bitter-almond odor. 1 explicit 27 Then along came hydrogen cyanide. “HCN?” says Turin. “What most people call cyanide... where you smell bitter almonds on her breath?” Then along came hydrogen cyanide. “HCN?” says Turin. “What most people call cyanide... where you smell bitter almonds on her breath?”
freshly baked bread named natural odor material freshly baked bread scent 1 explicit 28 the scents of jasmine and freshly baked bread are . . . different structural groups the scents of jasmine and freshly baked bread are . . . different structural groups
molecule X X described by scientists as woody; Turin said it smelled of musk 1 explicit 28 writing that molecule X smelled woody ... when it was clear to him that it smelled of musk writing that molecule X smelled woody ... when it was clear to him that it smelled of musk
ambergris molecule “ambergris smell” 1 explicit 29 “which piece of the ambergris molecule’s shape carries its smell information?” “which piece of the ambergris molecule’s shape carries its smell information?”
R-carvone R version of carvone; rectus/right-handed carvone garden mint Same vibrations as S-carvone, with no numeric frequency given 1 explicit 29 “R smelled of garden mint” “R smelled of garden mint”
S-carvone S version of carvone; sinister/left-handed carvone caraway seeds Same vibrations as R-carvone, with no numeric frequency given 1 explicit 29 “S smelled of caraway seeds” “S smelled of caraway seeds”
carbonyl C=O; carbonyl vibration Carbonyl functional group Associated with the difference between mint and caraway; described by analogy to nail-polish remover. Wave number 1800; stretchy vibration None mentioned 1 explicit 30 Carbonyls are a Carbon atom soldered by a double bond—two electrons—to an Oxygen atom. C=O... They have a stretchy vibration with a wave number of 1800. Carbonyls are a Carbon atom soldered by a double bond—two electrons—to an Oxygen atom. C=O... They have a stretchy vibration with a wave number of 1800.
caraway seeds natural odor material The smell of caraway is described as mint combined with the smell of nail-polish remover. No numeric frequency given. 1 explicit 31 when we smell caraway seeds, we are smelling the vibrations that we read as mint plus the vibration that smells to us like nail-polish remover. when we smell caraway seeds, we are smelling the vibrations that we read as mint plus the vibration that smells to us like nail-polish remover.
S–C groups S-Cs Not stated Not stated; described as forming dimers Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 S-Cs and S-O-Hs forming dimers. S-Cs and S-O-Hs forming dimers.
S–O–H groups S-O-Hs Not stated Not stated; described as forming dimers Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 S-Cs and S-O-Hs forming dimers. S-Cs and S-O-Hs forming dimers.
S–H groups Chemical groups containing sulfur and hydrogen; no further class stated Associated with compounds that might smell horrific; one caused an asphyxiating rotten-egg smell Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 because Turin worked with S-H groups a fair amount, even if it wasn’t extremely toxic, it was fair odds the thing would smell horrific. because Turin worked with S-H groups a fair amount, even if it wasn’t extremely toxic, it was fair odds the thing would smell horrific.
Unspecified smell molecules None stated Not stated Their “atomic fragrance” was to be inhaled; no specific odor given Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 There were a million knickknacks he had to track down and buy, pieces of software, measuring tools, smell molecules. There were a million knickknacks he had to track down and buy, pieces of software, measuring tools, smell molecules.
Unspecified compound None stated Not stated Described as having an extremely bad smell, specifically an asphyxiating rotten-egg odor in one incident Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 When one day an absolutely asphyxiating rotten-egg smell came rolling into his office When one day an absolutely asphyxiating rotten-egg smell came rolling into his office
Unspecified molecule None stated Not stated A molecule that smells according to the relationship between its vibrations and its odor, in Turin’s theory Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 32 whatever molecule had graciously agreed to smell the way Turin thought its tiny vibrations should make it smell. whatever molecule had graciously agreed to smell the way Turin thought its tiny vibrations should make it smell.
SH molecules Not specified; described as “SH molecules” Some reportedly did not smell like decaborane; the sulfurs ordered from Aldrich smelled pretty bad 1 explicit 33 some SH molecules didn’t smell like his decaborane some SH molecules didn’t smell like his decaborane
sulfurs Not specified; referred to as “sulfurs” Pretty bad smell; foul odors; associated with a strong stench 1 explicit 33 he nervously ordered a dozen different sulfurs from Aldrich, the chemical-supply company, and prayed for foul odors he nervously ordered a dozen different sulfurs from Aldrich, the chemical-supply company, and prayed for foul odors
synthetic heliotropes synthetic raw material 1 explicit 36 Synthetic raw materials arrived—synthetic heliotropes, synthetic rose molecules. Synthetic raw materials arrived—synthetic heliotropes, synthetic rose molecules.
synthetic rose molecules synthetic raw material rose 1 explicit 36 Synthetic raw materials arrived—synthetic heliotropes, synthetic rose molecules. Synthetic raw materials arrived—synthetic heliotropes, synthetic rose molecules.
roses natural raw material rose 1 explicit 36 today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World
jasmines jasmine natural raw material jasmine Chanel 1 explicit 36 Then they go to Tunisia and lock up one guy’s total jasmine supply for a full decade. Then they go to Tunisia and lock up one guy’s total jasmine supply for a full decade.
greens natural raw material green 1 explicit 36 today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World
distilled hay pure distillation of fresh hay natural raw material/distillate “the smell of liquid summer sunlight” 1 explicit 36 Laboratoire Monique Remy makes a pure distillation of fresh hay that is . . . unpronounceably wonderful. Distilled hay is the smell of liquid summer sunlight. Laboratoire Monique Remy makes a pure distillation of fresh hay that is . . . unpronounceably wonderful. Distilled hay is the smell of liquid summer sunlight.
citrus new citrus natural raw material citrus 1 explicit 36 Here’s our new citrus for this year, and they smell it, and it’s the best, the best in the entire world Here’s our new citrus for this year, and they smell it, and it’s the best, the best in the entire world
natural raw materials naturals natural odor materials roses, jasmines, and greens are given as examples 1 explicit 36 today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World today almost all the naturals, the roses and jasmines and greens, come from the Third World
flowers natural raw material flower scent implied by their use in perfume production 1 explicit 36 the climate’s ideal for growing flowers the climate’s ideal for growing flowers
leather natural material 1 explicit 36 Grasse was a big leather town in the early nineteenth century, particularly gloves. Grasse was a big leather town in the early nineteenth century, particularly gloves.
Soap Dirty soap; Miss Dior knockoff soap Perfumed soap base Its combination with ambergris created an animalic Dior effect; the soap itself was perfumed with a Miss Dior knockoff Miss Dior; Dioressence 1 explicit 37 The combination of the soap and ambergris has somehow created exactly the animalic Dior he’s been desperately looking for. The combination of the soap and ambergris has somehow created exactly the animalic Dior he’s been desperately looking for.
Miss Dior knockoff base Cheap Miss Dior soap knockoff base Chypric, fruity aldehydic perfume base Chypric and fruity aldehydic; combined with ambergris to produce an animalic Dior character Dioressence; Miss Dior 1 explicit 37 Dioressence was created from a cheap Miss Dior soap knockoff base, chypric, fruity aldehydic, plus a giant cube of rancid whale vomit. Dioressence was created from a cheap Miss Dior soap knockoff base, chypric, fruity aldehydic, plus a giant cube of rancid whale vomit.
HCN bitter almonds Around wave number 700 (carbonyl), around 2000 (nitrile), and around 800 (nitrile bending mode) 1 explicit 38 there was a little molecule he knew of, HCN, that smelled of bitter almonds there was a little molecule he knew of, HCN, that smelled of bitter almonds
cyclopentadienyl-metal tricarbonyls metal carbonyls organometallic compounds One member was reported to have a camphor smell; the group was tested for a bitter-almond odor, but the experiment was considered a failure. 1800–2000 (carbonyl); 800 (benzene ring) 1 explicit 39 They had the 1800-2000 carbonyl and 800 benzene ring... cyclopentadienyl-metal tricarbonyls, nicknamed “metal carbonyls” They had the 1800-2000 carbonyl and 800 benzene ring... cyclopentadienyl-metal tricarbonyls, nicknamed “metal carbonyls”
cobalt-flavored metal carbonyl cobalt-flavored one organometallic compound Could not be smelled because it exploded into flames on contact with air. 1 explicit 39 the cobalt-flavored one smelled like—well, it turned out that it exploded into flames on contact with air, which made it impossible to smell the cobalt-flavored one smelled like—well, it turned out that it exploded into flames on contact with air, which made it impossible to smell
hexanal hexANal; single-bond hexanal molecule Harsh and like swimming-pool bleach. 1 explicit 39 the molecule hexANal (single bond) smells harsh and like swimming pool bleach the molecule hexANal (single bond) smells harsh and like swimming pool bleach
hexenal hexENal; double-bond hexenal molecule More like bitter almonds and much sweeter than hexanal. 1 explicit 39 hexENal, the exact same molecule but with a double bond, smells very different, more like bitter almonds and much sweeter hexENal, the exact same molecule but with a double bond, smells very different, more like bitter almonds and much sweeter
cryptate molecules cryptates cage molecules 1 explicit 39 You know about these cryptate molecules... a cage molecule that encloses another, smaller one? You know about these cryptate molecules... a cage molecule that encloses another, smaller one?
carceplexes None stated Large molecular cages/rings made essentially of benzenes Not stated; described as probably too large to smell Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 things called carceplexes. The name meant, basically, ‘cage,’ and essentially they were big rings of benzenes. things called carceplexes. The name meant, basically, ‘cage,’ and essentially they were big rings of benzenes.
hydrogen sulfide H2S Not stated Very strong rotten-egg smell; evil-smelling; sulfurous/classic sulfur odor Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 H2S,’—a very strong rotten-egg smell— H2S,’—a very strong rotten-egg smell—
thiophene None stated Not stated Not stated Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 Potential imprisoned molecules are potent odorants: H2S, ... thiophene Potential imprisoned molecules are potent odorants: H2S, ... thiophene
pyridine None stated Not stated Distinctive harsh inky odor Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 pyridine’—a distinctive harsh inky odor— pyridine’—a distinctive harsh inky odor—
benzene benzenes Not stated Not stated Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 they were big rings of benzenes they were big rings of benzenes
fullerene C60; pure carbon fullerene Pure carbon molecule; a polyhedron Not stated Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 Plan D was a molecule called a fullerene. ... He decided on a fullerene called C60 Plan D was a molecule called a fullerene. ... He decided on a fullerene called C60
graphite None stated Form of pure carbon Not stated Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 There are only three forms of pure carbon: graphite, diamond, and C60. There are only three forms of pure carbon: graphite, diamond, and C60.
diamond None stated Form of pure carbon Not stated Not stated None mentioned 1 explicit 40 There are only three forms of pure carbon: graphite, diamond, and C60. There are only three forms of pure carbon: graphite, diamond, and C60.
amines Amines Associated with the smell of decomposing organic material and rotten cheese. 1 explicit 41 Why? The quality of decomposition: amines, short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids, the typical products of the decomposition of organic material. Why? The quality of decomposition: amines, short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids, the typical products of the decomposition of organic material.
short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids Short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids Associated with the smell of decomposing organic material and rotten cheese. 1 explicit 41 Why? The quality of decomposition: amines, short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids, the typical products of the decomposition of organic material. Why? The quality of decomposition: amines, short-chain aliphatic volatile fatty acids, the typical products of the decomposition of organic material.
quinolines quinolines associated with green peppers; dark and angular Bandit 1 explicit 42 Beethoven in his angrier moments is quinolines, which you get in green peppers. Thus Bandit, a dark, angular Beethoven string quartet. Beethoven in his angrier moments is quinolines, which you get in green peppers. Thus Bandit, a dark, angular Beethoven string quartet.
beeswax natural odor material beeswax-like element in Sauternes 1 explicit 42 There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana
woody note woody odor descriptor/material woody element in Sauternes 1 explicit 42 There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana There are three elements—a beeswax, a woody, and a floral banana
enantiomers stereoisomeric compounds 1 explicit 42 It had the enantiomers, it had the metallocenes. It had the enantiomers, it had the metallocenes.
dimethyl sulfide sulfur compound The text identifies it as the source of truffle aroma, described as unlike anything else. 1 explicit 43 truffle aroma is like nothing on earth (dimethyl sulfide actually). truffle aroma is like nothing on earth (dimethyl sulfide actually).
C4 aldehyde aldehyde with four Carbons Aldehyde Smelled pretty bad, according to the text’s description of aldehydes below seven or eight carbons. 1 inferred 43 Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery
C5 aldehyde aldehyde with five Carbons Aldehyde Smelled pretty bad, according to the text’s description of aldehydes below seven or eight carbons. 1 inferred 43 Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery
C6 aldehyde aldehyde with six Carbons Aldehyde Smelled pretty bad, according to the text’s description of aldehydes below seven or eight carbons. 1 inferred 43 Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery Below seven or eight Carbons, they all smelled pretty bad and couldn’t be used in perfumery
C7 aldehyde aldehyde with seven Carbons Aldehyde Smoky candles. 1 explicit 43 all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles. all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles.
C8 aldehyde aldehyde with eight Carbons Aldehyde Mandarin orange; part of the even-numbered aldehyde pattern. Chanel No. 5 1 explicit 43 all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange. all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange.
C9 aldehyde aldehyde with nine Carbons Aldehyde Smoky candles. 1 explicit 43 all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles. all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles.
C10 aldehyde aldehyde with ten Carbons Aldehyde Mandarin orange. Chanel No. 5 1 explicit 43 all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange. all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange.
C11 aldehyde aldehyde with eleven Carbons Aldehyde Smoky candles. 1 explicit 43 all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles. all the odd ones (seven, nine, eleven) smelled like smoky candles.
C12 aldehyde aldehyde with twelve Carbons Aldehyde Mandarin orange. Chanel No. 5 1 explicit 43 all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange. all the aldehydes that had an even number of Carbons (ten Carbons, twelve Carbons) smelled like mandarin orange.
black truffle truffle Natural odor material Its aroma is described as unlike anything else on earth. 1 explicit 43 truffle aroma is like nothing on earth (dimethyl sulfide actually). truffle aroma is like nothing on earth (dimethyl sulfide actually).
aldehyde groups aldehyde Chanel No. 5 molecules 1 explicit 44 some (for instance, the aldehyde groups in these molecules) go in a rotating vibration as they dance around the Carbon-Carbon bond some (for instance, the aldehyde groups in these molecules) go in a rotating vibration as they dance around the Carbon-Carbon bond
gingerbread named perfume ingredient or odor material liquorice and biscuits, not ginger Celine fragrance submission 1 explicit 45 It’s called gingerbread and smells stunning, of liquorice and biscuits, not ginger. It’s called gingerbread and smells stunning, of liquorice and biscuits, not ginger.
isomers Isomers Two isomers were reported to rotate very differently from each other; no odor descriptor is given. Not specified 1 explicit 47 Turin’s finding that two isomers happened to rotate very differently from each other. Turin’s finding that two isomers happened to rotate very differently from each other.
peach Associated with peach flowers; described as an inhaled smell/odorant molecule. 1 explicit 49 A person inhales a smell—peach flowers or whiskey or asphalt—and a molecule of peach or asphalt is sucked into the nose A person inhales a smell—peach flowers or whiskey or asphalt—and a molecule of peach or asphalt is sucked into the nose
whiskey Named as an inhaled smell. 1 explicit 49 A person inhales a smell—peach flowers or whiskey or asphalt A person inhales a smell—peach flowers or whiskey or asphalt
asphalt Named as an inhaled smell; an asphalt molecule is described as entering the nose. 1 explicit 49 a molecule of peach or asphalt is sucked into the nose a molecule of peach or asphalt is sucked into the nose
orange blossom molecule A molecule naturally created in orange blossoms; no specific odor descriptor is given. 1 explicit 49 perhaps some molecule naturally created in orange blossoms perhaps some molecule naturally created in orange blossoms
shoe leather Used as an example of a material whose molecular vibrations could be detected by smell. 1 explicit 49 It will be able to tell you within a few tens of wavenumbers what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather It will be able to tell you within a few tens of wavenumbers what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather
tea rose Used as an example of a scented material whose molecular vibrations could be detected. 1 explicit 49 what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather or tea rose or shrimp shell has what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather or tea rose or shrimp shell has
shrimp shell Used as an example of a scented material whose molecular vibrations could be detected. 1 explicit 49 what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather or tea rose or shrimp shell has what vibrations some molecule of shoe leather or tea rose or shrimp shell has
phosphate groups Biological electron-powering groups. 1 explicit 49 Phosphate groups, for example, power various electronic processes in the body Phosphate groups, for example, power various electronic processes in the body
AAGHT Amino-acid sequence; given as a hypothetical NADPH-binding socket sequence. 1 explicit 49 the specific combination of the acids AAGHT or GPTAG or whatever the specific combination of the acids AAGHT or GPTAG or whatever
GPTAG Amino-acid sequence; given as a hypothetical NADPH-binding socket sequence. 1 explicit 49 the specific combination of the acids AAGHT or GPTAG or whatever the specific combination of the acids AAGHT or GPTAG or whatever
Glycine G amino acid 1 explicit 50 G is Glycine, A is Alanine, and X can be any neutral (uncharged) amino acid at all. G is Glycine, A is Alanine, and X can be any neutral (uncharged) amino acid at all.
Alanine A amino acid 1 explicit 50 G is Glycine, A is Alanine, and X can be any neutral (uncharged) amino acid at all. G is Glycine, A is Alanine, and X can be any neutral (uncharged) amino acid at all.
Serines amino acid 1 explicit 50 He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters. He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters.
Lysines amino acid 1 explicit 50 He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters. He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters.
Glutamates amino acid 1 explicit 50 He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters. He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters.
Tryptophans amino acid 1 explicit 50 He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters. He turned on his laptop, went to the Web, and downloaded the sequence of amino acids in the receptors, Serines, Lysines, Glutamates, Tryptophans, long strings of letters.
Molybdenum metal 1 explicit 50 The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things. The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things.
Calcium metal 1 explicit 50 The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things. The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things.
Selenium metal 1 explicit 50 The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things. The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things.
Copper metal 1 explicit 50 The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things. The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things.
Nickel metal 1 explicit 50 The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things. The body needs any number of metals: molybdenum, calcium, selenium, copper, nickel, which all do various things.
Iron metal 1 explicit 50 (We can carry oxygen in our blood because hemoglobin contains iron, which binds to oxygen and lugs it around the body.) (We can carry oxygen in our blood because hemoglobin contains iron, which binds to oxygen and lugs it around the body.)
Alpha-methyldopa Enzyme/database match; class not otherwise stated 1 explicit 51 No. 49 ... L2AM_DROME ALPHA-METHYLDOPA HYPERS No. 49 ... L2AM_DROME ALPHA-METHYLDOPA HYPERS
Bombyxin B-8 BXB8_BOMMO; Bombyxin B-8 precursor Precursor protein/peptide; class not otherwise stated 1 explicit 51 No. 50, BXB8_BOMMO BOMBYXIN B-8 PRECURSOR No. 50, BXB8_BOMMO BOMBYXIN B-8 PRECURSOR
Chitinase A CHIA_ALTSO Enzyme 1 explicit 51 No. 62 (chitinase, which makes soft-shelled crabs soft) No. 62 (chitinase, which makes soft-shelled crabs soft)
Phenylacetaldehyde Chemical compound; class not stated 1 explicit 52 Enclosed the phenylacetaldehyde-phenylacetonitrile picture. Enclosed the phenylacetaldehyde-phenylacetonitrile picture.
Phenylacetonitrile Chemical compound; class not stated 1 explicit 52 Enclosed the phenylacetaldehyde-phenylacetonitrile picture. Enclosed the phenylacetaldehyde-phenylacetonitrile picture.
ecyclooctatetraene Predicted to smell like cinnamon. 1 explicit 53 benzaldehyde and ecyclooctatetraene should smell like cinnamon benzaldehyde and ecyclooctatetraene should smell like cinnamon
C7–C13 aldehydes Aldehydes The text refers to their alternating smells but does not specify the individual odor descriptors. 1 explicit 53 the alternating smells of C7–C13 aldehydes the alternating smells of C7–C13 aldehydes
catecholamines 1 explicit 53 catecholamines are redox reagents catecholamines are redox reagents
odorants 1 explicit 53 odorants are small hydrophobic molecules odorants are small hydrophobic molecules
phenobarb 1 explicit 59 “you should get her on phenobarb by the end of today.” “you should get her on phenobarb by the end of today.”
cucumber Described as having the vilest stench and foul odors; later smelled of fresh cucumber. 1 explicit 60 “the one thing that had the vilest stench of all: cucumber” “the one thing that had the vilest stench of all: cucumber”
mayonnaise Its smell took four months to come back and was unpleasant enough that she quickly closed the jar. 1 explicit 60 “the mayonnaise smell took four months to come back” “the mayonnaise smell took four months to come back”
baked beans Smelled among familiar household foods after her sense of smell returned. 1 explicit 60 “then a jar of mayonnaise ... baked beans, and chocolates” “then a jar of mayonnaise ... baked beans, and chocolates”
chocolates Previously revolting, but after recovery they smelled lovely. 1 explicit 60 “chocolates, which used to smell revolting. Now they smelled lovely” “chocolates, which used to smell revolting. Now they smelled lovely”
vanilla ice cream Its smell took slightly longer to return properly. 1 explicit 60 “she got some vanilla ice cream ... although that one took a tiny bit longer to come back properly” “she got some vanilla ice cream ... although that one took a tiny bit longer to come back properly”
milk Consumed while testing the return of her sense of smell. 1 explicit 60 “and drinking milk” “and drinking milk”
shoe polish Smelled repeatedly after being recovered from a box. 1 explicit 60 “She went and dug the shoe polish out of a box and smelled it and smelled it.” “She went and dug the shoe polish out of a box and smelled it and smelled it.”
hydrophobic molecules Hydrophobic molecules; the text identifies smell molecules as belonging to this group 1 explicit 61 numerous experiments starting in the 1870s had shown that hydrophobic molecules—which smell molecules are—can not only quite easily cross membranes but regularly did. numerous experiments starting in the 1870s had shown that hydrophobic molecules—which smell molecules are—can not only quite easily cross membranes but regularly did.
metal carbonyls Metal carbonyls 1 explicit 61 This evidence, 3 simply dismissed out of hand—the enantiomer experiment, the metal carbonyls, the aldehydes, everything. This evidence, 3 simply dismissed out of hand—the enantiomer experiment, the metal carbonyls, the aldehydes, everything.
smell molecules 1 explicit 62 none of the referees availed themselves of my offer to furnish the smell molecules in question none of the referees availed themselves of my offer to furnish the smell molecules in question
smell molecule 1 explicit 62 how easy it was for the electron to spew energy at things other than the smell molecule how easy it was for the electron to spew energy at things other than the smell molecule
aspartame 1 explicit 67 the sugar has been extracted from its molecular structure—literally—and replaced with aspartame the sugar has been extracted from its molecular structure—literally—and replaced with aspartame
caffeine 1 explicit 67 Caffeine-Free Coca-Cola Classic (same structure, just stripped of caffeine Caffeine-Free Coca-Cola Classic (same structure, just stripped of caffeine
Water H2O Compound 1 explicit 68 Heavy water (D2O) is just H2O whose Hs have been replaced with heavy Ds Heavy water (D2O) is just H2O whose Hs have been replaced with heavy Ds
Tritium Hydrogen isotope; radioactive isotope 1 explicit 68 You’ve now got a Hydrogen isotope called Tritium. It weighs three times as much as normal Hydrogen, but its nucleus is unstable and Tritium is radioactive. You’ve now got a Hydrogen isotope called Tritium. It weighs three times as much as normal Hydrogen, but its nucleus is unstable and Tritium is radioactive.
Toluene Used as a smell comparison; the regular acetophenone smelled like toluene, while the deuterated version smelled fruity instead. 1 explicit 68 It had a slightly gluey smell, like artists’ rubber gum, a toluene smell. It had a slightly gluey smell, like artists’ rubber gum, a toluene smell.
argon gas odorless 1 explicit 69 a steady stream of odorless argon gas is passed through it a steady stream of odorless argon gas is passed through it
silica material 1 explicit 69 eighty meters of thin silica tube wound up inside an oven eighty meters of thin silica tube wound up inside an oven
helium gas 1 explicit 69 the sample’s components ... travel through the tube on the conveyor belt of helium the sample’s components ... travel through the tube on the conveyor belt of helium
H-acetophenone Smells different from D-acetophenone; no specific odor descriptor is given. 1 explicit 70 “H-acetophenone and D-acetophenone smell different.” “H-acetophenone and D-acetophenone smell different.”
mustard gas lethal war gas Strongly like mustard 1 explicit 71 World War I’s deadly mustard gas smells strongly like mustard World War I’s deadly mustard gas smells strongly like mustard
phosgene COCl2 lethal war gas Pleasant smell of new-mown hay 1 explicit 71 the lethal war gas phosgene, COCl2, has a pleasant smell of new-mown hay the lethal war gas phosgene, COCl2, has a pleasant smell of new-mown hay
cyanide poison Nicely of bitter almonds 1 explicit 71 the poison cyanide smells nicely of bitter almonds the poison cyanide smells nicely of bitter almonds
Agent Orange chemical warfare reference Alarming, chemical-warfare-like smell associated with a photocopier malfunction and spilled toner 1 explicit 71 The alarming Agent Orange smell of chemical warfare when the photocopier breaks and the poisonous toner spills out The alarming Agent Orange smell of chemical warfare when the photocopier breaks and the poisonous toner spills out
alpha-octyl cyclopentanone sweet and oily-floral, mildly balsamic odor 1 explicit 74 The correlations were between the vibrations of molecules (alpha-octyl cyclopentanone’s unique chord) paired with reliable odor profiles (“sweet and oily-floral, mildly balsamic odor”). The correlations were between the vibrations of molecules (alpha-octyl cyclopentanone’s unique chord) paired with reliable odor profiles (“sweet and oily-floral, mildly balsamic odor”).
vetiverol Molinard’s Habanita 1 explicit 74 its roots provide an oil that contains, among other things, a molecule called vetiverol its roots provide an oil that contains, among other things, a molecule called vetiverol
iris synthetic synthetic odorant Iris-like; suggested for the smell of Dove soap 1 explicit 77 he suggested a really nice iris synthetic they had he suggested a really nice iris synthetic they had
butyric acid Text spells it “butryic acid” acid Feet; smells like feet 1 explicit 77 This one has an impurity of butryic acid. ... Feet, smells like feet. This one has an impurity of butryic acid. ... Feet, smells like feet.
chrysanthemum natural odor material Funereal and like a chemistry lab 1 explicit 77 the nth molecule that smells of chrysanthemum, which is to say funereal, which is to say like a chemistry lab the nth molecule that smells of chrysanthemum, which is to say funereal, which is to say like a chemistry lab
papaya natural odor material Hot papaya with cheap nail varnish; like a garbage can in Manila 1 explicit 77 This one smells like a garbage can in Manila: hot papaya with cheap nail varnish. This one smells like a garbage can in Manila: hot papaya with cheap nail varnish.
pineapple natural odor material An “unsmiling pineapple” 1 explicit 77 This one is a pineapple, but it’s an unsmiling pineapple. This one is a pineapple, but it’s an unsmiling pineapple.
floral notes Armloads of flowers; part of the smell of a well-to-do bourgeois interior Mitsouko; Shalimar; L’Heure Bleue 1 explicit 77 Add some choice floral notes (the armloads the florist had just dropped off at the servants’ entrance Add some choice floral notes (the armloads the florist had just dropped off at the servants’ entrance
woody notes Freshly waxed floors; part of the smell of a well-to-do bourgeois interior Mitsouko; Shalimar; L’Heure Bleue 1 explicit 77 and some woody notes (the floors had been freshly waxed that morning) and some woody notes (the floors had been freshly waxed that morning)
opiates opiates 1 explicit 77 since chocolate releases opiates in the brain since chocolate releases opiates in the brain
caspirene Refreshingly toxic; characterized as having an ambivalent mothballs-rum or mint-molasses character. Mugler’s Angel; proposed Chanel No. 22–After Eight hybrid 1 explicit 78 Angel is brilliant, at once edible (chocolate) and refreshingly toxic (caspirene, coumarin) Angel is brilliant, at once edible (chocolate) and refreshingly toxic (caspirene, coumarin)
cyclic ether bridge epoxides; dioxolanes cyclic ether Produces a bright, dry olfactory effect equivalent to a musical “sharp.” Tocade; Karanal 1 explicit 78 one of the olfactory features of molecules containing a cyclic ether bridge (epoxides or dioxolanes as in the molecule Karanal) is a bright dryness one of the olfactory features of molecules containing a cyclic ether bridge (epoxides or dioxolanes as in the molecule Karanal) is a bright dryness
cedroxide Decorates an intensely sweet amber note. Sublime by Jean Patou 1 explicit 78 with its intensely sweet amber note decorated by cedroxide with its intensely sweet amber note decorated by cedroxide
vetiveryl acetate Possibly contributes to the intensely sweet amber effect of Sublime; the text marks its presence as uncertain. Sublime by Jean Patou 1 explicit 78 decorated by cedroxide (and vetiveryl acetate?) decorated by cedroxide (and vetiveryl acetate?)
phenylethylglycidate epoxide Presented as part of a food-inspired strawberry-plus-pepper composition. 1 explicit 78 food-inspired epoxide compositions, like strawberries plus pepper (phenylethylglycidate, another epoxide + elemi) food-inspired epoxide compositions, like strawberries plus pepper (phenylethylglycidate, another epoxide + elemi)
C-O-C ether linkage or note A pure molecular note used to wave a chemical wand over classical compositions. Karanal; Rive Gauche 1 explicit 78 They could wave a chemical wand over their classical compositions by using the C-O-C note in its pure state as found in Karanal They could wave a chemical wand over their classical compositions by using the C-O-C note in its pure state as found in Karanal
mimosa natural odor material Described as mawkish in the proposed modernized Farnesiana concept. Farnesiana by Caron 1 explicit 78 a more fluorescent black currant and a less mawkish mimosa a more fluorescent black currant and a less mawkish mimosa
black currant natural odor material A fluorescent version is proposed for a modernized Farnesiana. Farnesiana by Caron 1 explicit 78 what ... might a modern version of Daltroff’s memorable mimosa–black currant creation Farnesiana smell like with a more fluorescent black currant what ... might a modern version of Daltroff’s memorable mimosa–black currant creation Farnesiana smell like with a more fluorescent black currant
strawberries strawberry food odor material Proposed in a food-inspired composition with pepper. 1 explicit 78 food-inspired epoxide compositions, like strawberries plus pepper food-inspired epoxide compositions, like strawberries plus pepper
elemi natural odor material Mentioned as part of the strawberry-plus-pepper epoxide concept; no separate odor description given. 1 explicit 78 phenylethylglycidate, another epoxide + elemi phenylethylglycidate, another epoxide + elemi
violette nitrile nitrile 1 explicit 79 take some nice perfume nitriles (violette nitrile, agrunitrile), and... make isonitrile versions of them. take some nice perfume nitriles (violette nitrile, agrunitrile), and... make isonitrile versions of them.
agrunitrile nitrile 1 explicit 79 take some nice perfume nitriles (violette nitrile, agrunitrile), and... make isonitrile versions of them. take some nice perfume nitriles (violette nitrile, agrunitrile), and... make isonitrile versions of them.
ionones sweet violet ionones Sweet violet. Grey Flannel; Givenchy Homme. 1 explicit 79 why in the world were sweet violet ionones so curiously absent from recent men’s fragrances (except Grey Flannel and Givenchy Homme)? why in the world were sweet violet ionones so curiously absent from recent men’s fragrances (except Grey Flannel and Givenchy Homme)?
ambroxan Common in imitations of Cool Water, Van Cleef, Drakkar Noir, and Azzaro pour Homme; said to be on the way out. 1 explicit 79 Dihydromyrcenol and ambroxan are, I am told, on the way out. Dihydromyrcenol and ambroxan are, I am told, on the way out.
Quest Research Molecules the five molecules; smell chemicals Their odor characters were to be classified as woods, musks, or ambers; their strength was also to be assessed. 1 explicit 80 They were Quest Research Molecules that Sell’s team had synthesized... Turin would have to tell him which of these molecules were woods, which musks, and which ambers. They were Quest Research Molecules that Sell’s team had synthesized... Turin would have to tell him which of these molecules were woods, which musks, and which ambers.
cyclopentadecanolide Reference musk Musk 1 explicit 81 The reference musk, replied Sell, was cyclopentadecanolide The reference musk, replied Sell, was cyclopentadecanolide
cedrol Reference wood odor molecule Wood 1 explicit 81 wood was cedrol wood was cedrol
Jeger’s ketal Reference amber odor molecule Amber 1 explicit 81 the amber would be Jeger’s ketal the amber would be Jeger’s ketal
alcohol group Functional group Associated with lily of the valley in the three test molecules Not numerically stated; described as easy to calculate 1 explicit 81 Each of the three has an alcohol group Each of the three has an alcohol group
methyl group Chemical group Replacing the alcohol groups with methyl groups leaves only one molecule smelling of lily of the valley 1 explicit 81 Replace all three alcohols with a methyl group, said Sell, and only one of them still smells of lily of the valley Replace all three alcohols with a methyl group, said Sell, and only one of them still smells of lily of the valley
Quest molecules Unspecified odorant molecules Various odor characters; individual scents are not named in the passage 1 explicit 81 with access to only five Quest molecules and their corresponding descriptors with access to only five Quest molecules and their corresponding descriptors
ten compounds Unspecified chemical compounds Their individual odors are not specified; Turin identified about half correctly 1 explicit 81 This time, he gave Turin ten compounds and five reference smells This time, he gave Turin ten compounds and five reference smells
Givaudan’s molecules Unspecified odorant molecules; molecular structures containing carbon atoms and possibly an amine group are mentioned generically Their formulas are said to require matching odor descriptors such as “leather,” “harsh,” or “sweet,” but no individual molecule is identified with a specific odor. 1 explicit 82 Everyone knew that if the formulas fell into a competitor’s hands they weren’t worth much without their matching descriptors: “leather,” “harsh,” “sweet,” and so on. Everyone knew that if the formulas fell into a competitor’s hands they weren’t worth much without their matching descriptors: “leather,” “harsh,” “sweet,” and so on.
amine group Functional group 1 explicit 82 You could get a molecule’s structure, see your quarry right there, sitting on the page, the Carbons here, an amine group there. You could get a molecule’s structure, see your quarry right there, sitting on the page, the Carbons here, an amine group there.
Thai Basil Reference odor material 1 explicit 83 it could tell how close that molecule would be to Thai Basil or Turkish Rose it could tell how close that molecule would be to Thai Basil or Turkish Rose
Turkish Rose Reference odor material 1 explicit 83 it could tell how close that molecule would be to Thai Basil or Turkish Rose it could tell how close that molecule would be to Thai Basil or Turkish Rose
musks Odor category; the test asked which molecules were musks 1 explicit 83 He had to calculate their vibrations and answer the question, Which of them were musks? He had to calculate their vibrations and answer the question, Which of them were musks?
ambers Odor category represented by multiple molecules in Part III 1 explicit 83 They had given him a sketched-out reference amber and a whole scad of other ambers They had given him a sketched-out reference amber and a whole scad of other ambers
odorant molecules molecules; compounds 1 explicit 83 the difficult task of designing new odorants the difficult task of designing new odorants
phenylacetic acid Described by some people as smelling like piss and by others as smelling like honey. 1 explicit 84 There’s the famous business of phenylacetic acid. Some people say it smells like piss, some people say it smells like honey. There’s the famous business of phenylacetic acid. Some people say it smells like piss, some people say it smells like honey.
Ambretone musk smelled quite nice 1 explicit 85 Takasago had several interesting captives—Ambretone for one, a musk that smelled quite nice and was even more nicely profitable. Takasago had several interesting captives—Ambretone for one, a musk that smelled quite nice and was even more nicely profitable.
straight long-chain carbons carbon chains 1 explicit 88 for straight long-chain carbons for straight long-chain carbons
alcohols alcohols 1 explicit 88 there’s a receptor for the specific shape of aldehydes, for straight long-chain carbons, and for alcohols there’s a receptor for the specific shape of aldehydes, for straight long-chain carbons, and for alcohols
four-carbon alcohol alcohol When mixed with an eight-carbon aldehyde, the resulting mixture is said to smell completely different from the reverse combination. 1 explicit 88 Mix a four-carbon alcohol with an eight-carbon aldehyde Mix a four-carbon alcohol with an eight-carbon aldehyde
eight-carbon aldehyde aldehyde When mixed with a four-carbon alcohol, the resulting mixture is said to smell completely different from the reverse combination. 1 explicit 88 Mix a four-carbon alcohol with an eight-carbon aldehyde Mix a four-carbon alcohol with an eight-carbon aldehyde
eight-carbon alcohol alcohol When mixed with a four-carbon aldehyde, the resulting mixture is said to smell completely different from the reverse combination. 1 explicit 88 and then mix an eight-carbon alcohol and a four-carbon aldehyde and then mix an eight-carbon alcohol and a four-carbon aldehyde
four-carbon aldehyde aldehyde When mixed with an eight-carbon alcohol, the resulting mixture is said to smell completely different from the reverse combination. 1 explicit 88 and then mix an eight-carbon alcohol and a four-carbon aldehyde and then mix an eight-carbon alcohol and a four-carbon aldehyde
acetophenone isotope isotopic variant of acetophenone Its smell is described only in comparison with acetophenone; the difference is too subtle. 1 explicit 90 the acetophenone and its isotope, but no, the difference in smell between the two was too subtle. the acetophenone and its isotope, but no, the difference in smell between the two was too subtle.
carvones Light and perfumey. 1 explicit 90 The carvones were too light and perfumey (same problem). The carvones were too light and perfumey (same problem).
linalool fragrance molecule; organoelement analogues are discussed Light and refreshing, floral-woody with a citrusy note; its sila version is more hyacinth-like and sweeter. 1 explicit 91 Take linalool (“light and refreshing, floral-woody with a citrusy note”), yank out one Carbon atom and install a Silicon atom in its place. You got, reported Wannagat, a fragrance more hyacinth-like, sweeter. Take linalool (“light and refreshing, floral-woody with a citrusy note”), yank out one Carbon atom and install a Silicon atom in its place. You got, reported Wannagat, a fragrance more hyacinth-like, sweeter.
methoxy-substituted compounds compounds containing methoxy groups methoxy-group-containing compounds The carbon version is camphoraceous and radish-like; the silicon-substituted version is minty and honey-floral. 1 explicit 91 Find some methoxy groups, rip out the C and stick in Si, and you go from “camphoraceous, radish” to “minty, honey floral.” Find some methoxy groups, rip out the C and stick in Si, and you go from “camphoraceous, radish” to “minty, honey floral.”
C6H5CH2El(CH3)3 homologous compounds system C6H5CH2El(CH3)3; C, Si, Ge, and Sn versions homologous organoelement compounds of Group IVA The odor differs strongly across the series from carbon through silicon and germanium to tin. 1 explicit 91 Noteworthy are the strong differences of odor in the system C6H5CH2El(CH3)3 from C via Si and Ge up to Sn. Noteworthy are the strong differences of odor in the system C6H5CH2El(CH3)3 from C via Si and Ge up to Sn.
rose fragrance molecules sila, germanium, and tin versions of rose molecules fragrance molecules 1 explicit 91 the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks. the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks.
violet fragrance molecules sila, germanium, and tin versions of violet molecules fragrance molecules 1 explicit 91 the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks. the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks.
jasmine fragrance molecules sila, germanium, and tin versions of jasmine molecules fragrance molecules 1 explicit 91 the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks. the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks.
musk fragrance molecules sila, germanium, and tin versions of musk molecules fragrance molecules 1 explicit 91 the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks. the guy had considerately made sila versions of all sorts of perfume molecules, roses, violets, jasmines, musks.
borane-sulfur 2500 (vibration connection; units and specific bond not stated) 1 explicit 92 he’d found the 2500 vibration-borane-sulfur smell connection he’d found the 2500 vibration-borane-sulfur smell connection
carvomenthenes C carvomenthenes; Si carvomenthenes (silicon analogues) The carbon and silicon versions smelled pretty similar to one another, unlike the broader pattern of the study. 1 explicit 92 The C and Si carvomenthenes, for example, smelled pretty similar. The C and Si carvomenthenes, for example, smelled pretty similar.
silicon analogues of carbon molecules silas; Silicon versions All twenty silicon versions smelled different from their carbon twins; seventeen smelled completely different, while three smelled almost the same. 1 explicit 92 all twenty Silicon versions smelled different from their Carbon twins all twenty Silicon versions smelled different from their Carbon twins
iris-root butter 1 explicit 93 Then there’s iris-root butter from Florence: £30,000 per kilo. Then there’s iris-root butter from Florence: £30,000 per kilo.
Turkish rose extract 1 explicit 93 Like the best Turkish rose extract. Like the best Turkish rose extract.
oudh wood oudh complex; honey, fresh tobacco, spices, amber, cream; derived from wood that has taken on the smell of a fungus 1 explicit 93 Oudh wood from India is in that stratospheric league. It costs around £33,000 ... It’s the wood of a certain Indian tree that has been eaten by a fungus. You carve out the rotten wood that has taken on the smell of the fungus and extract the fragrance. ... It’s a drop-dead smell, very complex, honey, fresh tobacco, spices, amber, cream. Oudh wood from India is in that stratospheric league. It costs around £33,000 ... It’s the wood of a certain Indian tree that has been eaten by a fungus. You carve out the rotten wood that has taken on the smell of the fungus and extract the fragrance. ... It’s a drop-dead smell, very complex, honey, fresh tobacco, spices, amber, cream.
Bulgarian rose Natural rose material Rose scent described as difficult to reproduce convincingly because people know what a rose smells like. Joy by Jean Patou 1 explicit 94 Joy is £150 to £200 per kilo because it has 10 percent Bulgarian rose, the real thing. Joy is £150 to £200 per kilo because it has 10 percent Bulgarian rose, the real thing.
pear odorant molecule Molecule selected from pears Contributes to the subtle distinction of William pear and other pear varieties. Petite Chérie by Annick Goutal 1 explicit 94 Petite Chérie, a lovely super-pear, contains one molecule that Goutal chose from pears. Petite Chérie, a lovely super-pear, contains one molecule that Goutal chose from pears.
natural South American musk rose Natural/re-created rose odor material Musk-rose scent; the text explains that this is a re-creation made from odorant molecules rather than necessarily distilled from that rose species. Petite Chérie by Annick Goutal 1 explicit 94 Petite Chérie also contains a natural South American musk rose. Petite Chérie also contains a natural South American musk rose.
Centifolia rose Rosa centifolia Rose species One of the two rose species said to be actually distilled. 1 explicit 94 only two species of rose, Centifolia and Damascena, are actually distilled only two species of rose, Centifolia and Damascena, are actually distilled
Damascena rose Rosa damascena Rose species One of the two rose species said to be actually distilled. 1 explicit 94 only two species of rose, Centifolia and Damascena, are actually distilled only two species of rose, Centifolia and Damascena, are actually distilled
peach molecules Natural peach molecules Molecules from peach Peach odor. Petite Chérie by Annick Goutal 1 explicit 94 several natural peach molecules several natural peach molecules
cut-grass molecule “Grass molecule” Odorant molecule extracted from other plants The smell immediately after cutting grass, which disappears immediately. Petite Chérie by Annick Goutal 1 explicit 94 the molecule that you get the second after you cut the grass but which disappears immediately. the molecule that you get the second after you cut the grass but which disappears immediately.
mango Natural odor material Mango odor as one of the ingredients noted in Folavril. Folavril 1 explicit 94 Folavril contains mango and Tasmanian Boronia flowers Folavril contains mango and Tasmanian Boronia flowers
Tasmanian Boronia flowers Boronia flowers Natural floral material Boronia floral odor as part of Folavril’s fruity-floral profile. Folavril 1 explicit 94 Folavril contains mango and Tasmanian Boronia flowers Folavril contains mango and Tasmanian Boronia flowers
tomato leaves Natural plant odor material “An utterly wonderful smell”; described as the material that actually powers Folavril. Folavril 1 explicit 94 what actually powers the fragrance is tomato leaves. (An utterly wonderful smell.) what actually powers the fragrance is tomato leaves. (An utterly wonderful smell.)
ambrox Image by Cerruti 1 explicit 94 Dihydromyrcenol, ambrox, and aldehydes. Dihydromyrcenol, ambrox, and aldehydes.
red berries Natural odor impression/material Red-berry note. Bois de Lune 1 explicit 94 Bois de Lune, red berries and smoked tea and souchong Bois de Lune, red berries and smoked tea and souchong
smoked tea Souchong; smoked tea and souchong Tea odor impression/material Smoky, smoked-tea character. Bois de Lune 1 explicit 94 Bois de Lune, red berries and smoked tea and souchong Bois de Lune, red berries and smoked tea and souchong
smoky notes Smoke Odor note Large, upfront smoky odor notes. Bois de Lune 1 explicit 94 No one’s yet dared to use really big smoky notes up front as smoke. No one’s yet dared to use really big smoky notes up front as smoke.
lactones Lactones Associated in context with a lovely apricot fragrance; the text does not specify which lactones. 1 inferred 95 “Throw in a couple esters, some lactones, and you’re laughing.” “Throw in a couple esters, some lactones, and you’re laughing.”
phthalate The same smell is described as either freshly boiled rice or tiger urine/piss, depending on language and context. 1 explicit 98 “Tigers mark their territory by urinating, and in zoos people smelled freshly boiled rice. It turned out to be the same molecule in both cases… It’s phthalate… in both.” “Tigers mark their territory by urinating, and in zoos people smelled freshly boiled rice. It turned out to be the same molecule in both cases… It’s phthalate… in both.”
marigold Hugely strong odor; prolonged exposure causes temporary olfactory burnout or adaptation. 1 explicit 98 “Smell a marigold (marigolds have hugely strong odor). Inhale the smell deeply. Now wait a second. Now try to smell it again. You can’t.” “Smell a marigold (marigolds have hugely strong odor). Inhale the smell deeply. Now wait a second. Now try to smell it again. You can’t.”
androstenone 1 explicit 99 In the pig, for example, androstenone is a well-known pheromone. In the pig, for example, androstenone is a well-known pheromone.
carbon monoxide 1 explicit 100 The carbon monoxide in the cigarettes totally blocks the enzyme cytochrome P450 The carbon monoxide in the cigarettes totally blocks the enzyme cytochrome P450
campholenic acid One variation, molecule number 4628, smells of sandalwood; the other variations produce fruity, woody, or bizarre odors. 1 explicit 100 He was looking for a good sandalwood that hadn’t been patented. In this notebook he’s tracking forty-five different molecules, variations on the molecular theme of campholenic acid. He was looking for a good sandalwood that hadn’t been patented. In this notebook he’s tracking forty-five different molecules, variations on the molecular theme of campholenic acid.
sandalwood natural odor material sandalwood note 1 explicit 100 ‘4628, interesting sandalwood note!’ ‘4628, interesting sandalwood note!’
molecule 4628 one of forty-five molecules related to campholenic acid sandalwood 1 explicit 100 only one, number 4628, smells of sandalwood. only one, number 4628, smells of sandalwood.
isopropyl alcohol isopropanol Alcohol Used as the comparison for ambergris: a less finished, less smooth odor than ambergris 1 explicit 101 ambergris, which smells like a more finished, smoother version of isopropyl alcohol. ambergris, which smells like a more finished, smoother version of isopropyl alcohol.
sandalwood odorant molecules Theoretical class described as monohydric alcohols with 12–17 carbon atoms Sandalwood-like 1 explicit 101 every molecule that smells like sandalwood must have four things. every molecule that smells like sandalwood must have four things.
Wannagat carbon analogue The compound with a central carbon atom Compound containing a tertiary butyl group and central carbon Ethereal, fruity, red-currant note 1 explicit 101 The one with Carbon smells ethereal with a fruity, red-currant note. The one with Carbon smells ethereal with a fruity, red-currant note.
Wannagat silicon analogue The compound with silicon replacing carbon Silicon analogue; silicon-containing compound Ethereal, sweet honey, floral, slightly camphoraceous 1 explicit 101 The one with Silicon smells ethereal—sweet honey, floral, slightly camphoraceous. The one with Silicon smells ethereal—sweet honey, floral, slightly camphoraceous.
Wannagat germanium analogue The compound with germanium replacing carbon Germanium-containing compound Sweet and aromatic, with an unpleasant chemical note 1 explicit 101 The one with the Germanium atoms smells sweet and aromatic, with an unpleasant chemical note. The one with the Germanium atoms smells sweet and aromatic, with an unpleasant chemical note.
Wannagat tin analogue The compound with tin replacing carbon Tin-containing compound Unpleasant, chlorine-like 1 explicit 101 Tin has an unpleasant chlorinelike note. Tin has an unpleasant chlorinelike note.
sulfur hexafluoride SF6 Small molecule Artichoke; described as having a strong odor 1 explicit 102 He points at sulfur hexafluoride, SF6, a tiny molecule. “I’m one of the few people who knows what this smells like. It smells of artichoke. Strong.” He points at sulfur hexafluoride, SF6, a tiny molecule. “I’m one of the few people who knows what this smells like. It smells of artichoke. Strong.”
SH group Sulfhydryl group; sulfur group Chemical group Sulfuraceous smell; all molecules containing SH are immediately recognizable as having sulfur, although their odor profiles differ 1 explicit 102 Everyone knows this is true with sulfurs, SHs. Every molecule with SH, no matter what else it might have, ... has a sulfuraceous smell. Everyone knows this is true with sulfurs, SHs. Every molecule with SH, no matter what else it might have, ... has a sulfuraceous smell.
methyl mercaptan Sulfur-bearing molecule; SH-containing molecule Extremely unpleasant 1 explicit 102 This one is methyl mercaptan, extremely unpleasant. This one is methyl mercaptan, extremely unpleasant.
OH group Hydroxyl group Chemical group 1 explicit 102 How does it distinguish an SH from an OH with absolute reliability? How does it distinguish an SH from an OH with absolute reliability?
cyanates Chemical compound class 1 explicit 103 you can’t explain cyanates, thiols, nitriles, et cetera. you can’t explain cyanates, thiols, nitriles, et cetera.
thiols Chemical compound class 1 explicit 103 you can’t explain cyanates, thiols, nitriles, et cetera. you can’t explain cyanates, thiols, nitriles, et cetera.
triethylamine borane Borane Camphoraceous; described as a non-sulfur smell. 2380 1 explicit 104 I went and smelled it. It smells camphoraceous. I went and smelled it. It smells camphoraceous.
acetophenone-D8 Deuterium-substituted compound Reported to smell different from acetophenone. 1 explicit 104 When I told my friends at Quest the isotopes smelled different When I told my friends at Quest the isotopes smelled different
alkanes Alkanes Weak odors because they lack charged groups. 1 explicit 104 alkanes have weak odors because they lack charged groups alkanes have weak odors because they lack charged groups
Silicon Smells different from Carbon; the difference is described as perceptible but not necessarily large 1 explicit 106 They’re different, yes, but they’re not very different. They’re different, yes, but they’re not very different.
2, 3-pentane dione 1 explicit 107 You’re talking to people who can’t smell the difference between diacetyl and 2, 3-pentane dione. You’re talking to people who can’t smell the difference between diacetyl and 2, 3-pentane dione.
amber 320 When settled, described as a very nice, earthy amber. 1 explicit 109 When it settles down, it’s actually a very nice, earthy amber. When it settles down, it’s actually a very nice, earthy amber.
indole Described as one of the strongest odors; associated with fecal matter. 1 explicit 109 if you remove the amino group from serotonin you get indole, one of the strongest odors around. We smell indoles all day, especially when we crap. if you remove the amino group from serotonin you get indole, one of the strongest odors around. We smell indoles all day, especially when we crap.
Ruhkhus A/Y natural odor material Described as “absolutely incredible cucumber.” 1 explicit 109 The Ruhkhus A/Y, this absolutely incredible cucumber, only costs about, ah ... five dollars and thirty cents for eleven grams. The Ruhkhus A/Y, this absolutely incredible cucumber, only costs about, ah ... five dollars and thirty cents for eleven grams.
sandalwood from Mysore natural odor material Described as “very nice” and “good stuff.” 1 explicit 109 the attarwalla begins with a sandalwood from Mysore, a natural. “Very nice,” says Turin, “it’s good stuff.” the attarwalla begins with a sandalwood from Mysore, a natural. “Very nice,” says Turin, “it’s good stuff.”
geranium natural odor material Minty and aromatic; has a prominent stalk and a greenhouse-flower-shop note. 1 explicit 109 “Minty, aromatic.” ... “Oh! Of course. The stalk is prominent, that’s the greenhouse–flower shop note.” “Minty, aromatic.” ... “Oh! Of course. The stalk is prominent, that’s the greenhouse–flower shop note.”
Chameli Indian chameli; tiny white Indian flowers Natural floral material Not specifically described; presented as an attar ingredient. 1 explicit 110 Offers his chameli—tiny white Indian flowers Offers his chameli—tiny white Indian flowers
Aldehydes C10/C11 C10, C11; C10/C11 aldehydes Aldehydes C10 is “smooth, fruity”; C11 is “coconut oil” and harsher. Rebecca; Chanel No. 5 1 explicit 110 No. Mostly C11, C10 aldehydes. No. Mostly C11, C10 aldehydes.
Opopanax Natural odor material Mentioned as a possible ingredient in Rebecca, but Quraysh denies it. Rebecca 1 explicit 110 Turin: “Opopanax?” Quraysh: “No. Mostly C11, C10 aldehydes.” Turin: “Opopanax?” Quraysh: “No. Mostly C11, C10 aldehydes.”
Khus Vetiver-based khus Natural odor material; described as made of vetiver A sort of supergreen. 1 explicit 110 then khus, a sort of supergreen made, Quraysh tells him, of vetiver then khus, a sort of supergreen made, Quraysh tells him, of vetiver
Pan Paan; South Asian narcotic pan Natural mixture/odor material Part of a dark, intoxicating mix. Musk Tea 1 explicit 110 A dark, intoxicating mix of the mild South Asian narcotic pan A dark, intoxicating mix of the mild South Asian narcotic pan
Sopari Flavoring from betel nut; supari Natural flavoring/odor material Part of a dark, intoxicating mix. Musk Tea 1 explicit 110 sopari (the flavoring that comes from the drug betel nut) sopari (the flavoring that comes from the drug betel nut)
Betel nut Source of sopari Natural odor/flavor material Associated with the sopari component of a dark, intoxicating mix. Musk Tea 1 explicit 110 the flavoring that comes from the drug betel nut the flavoring that comes from the drug betel nut
Tobacco Natural odor material Part of a dark, intoxicating mix. Musk Tea 1 explicit 110 A dark, intoxicating mix of the mild South Asian narcotic pan, sopari ..., tobacco, musky and animalic. A dark, intoxicating mix of the mild South Asian narcotic pan, sopari ..., tobacco, musky and animalic.
Animalic Animalic musk character Odor descriptor/material An “absolutely classic base”; associated with a dark, intoxicating character and early-1900s Parisian perfumes. Musk Tea 1 explicit 110 A dark, intoxicating mix ... musky and animalic. A dark, intoxicating mix ... musky and animalic.
Macrocyclic musks Macrocyclics Macrocyclic musk compounds Not specifically described; said to have a role in modern Brut if the manufacturer has the money. Modern Brut 1 explicit 110 If they have the money, they have macrocyclics. If they have the money, they have macrocyclics.
Musk xylol Musk compound Said to have a “fantastic effect in composition.” 1 explicit 110 We get some very good musk xylol here. We get some very good musk xylol here.
Trinitrotoluene TNT; trinitro toluene Explosive compound; source/reference for the musks discussed Not directly described as an odor. 1 explicit 110 These are the musks that came from TNT. The explosive, trinitro toluene. These are the musks that came from TNT. The explosive, trinitro toluene.
Aldehyde group Chemical functional group Not separately described. 1 explicit 110 and an aldehyde group and an aldehyde group
Nutmeg A nutmeg effect associated with identifying dihydromyrcenol. 1 explicit 111 “Dihydromyrcenol?” ... “It’s the nutmeg effect.” “Dihydromyrcenol?” ... “It’s the nutmeg effect.”
Ethyl vanillin Mentioned as one of the conventional vanilla materials. 1 explicit 111 “It’s the usual suspects, ethyl vanillin, maltol . . .” “It’s the usual suspects, ethyl vanillin, maltol . . .”
Labdanum Quraysh says they obtain the best labdanum and then distort it. 1 explicit 111 “We actually get the best labdanum we can and then distort it.” “We actually get the best labdanum we can and then distort it.”
Castoreum An animalic odor; Turin compares one oudh sample to castoreum and says it contributes a woody effect. 1 explicit 111 “Hugely animalic. Like castoreum!” “Hugely animalic. Like castoreum!”
Natural iris butter Iris butter Natural odor material Presented as an exceptionally expensive natural material that firms and customers generally cannot afford. 1 explicit 111 “But it’s like natural iris butter. No firm can afford it.” “But it’s like natural iris butter. No firm can afford it.”
Narcissus Natural flower material Described as “stupendous.” 1 explicit 111 “They have a stupendous narcissus.” “They have a stupendous narcissus.”
Synthetic oudh Synthetic oud Synthetic odor material A much cheaper material that Quraysh says has only one-eighteenth the smell of Abdul Aklur’s natural oudh. 1 explicit 111 “Quraysh has a synthetic oudh ... it’s also one-eighteenth the smell.” “Quraysh has a synthetic oudh ... it’s also one-eighteenth the smell.”
Nitro Identified by Turin as the base note in another perfume material. 1 explicit 111 “You really have the nitro as your base note in that one.” “You really have the nitro as your base note in that one.”
tree moss Natural odor material Included to clean or balance the spicy turmeric smell 1 explicit 112 I put in a tree moss ... because here, you see, you have a real spicy turmeric smell. And that will clean it. I put in a tree moss ... because here, you see, you have a real spicy turmeric smell. And that will clean it.
turmeric Natural odor material Spicy 1 explicit 112 you have a real spicy turmeric smell you have a real spicy turmeric smell
oak moss Natural odor material Woody moss character; Turin recommends a seventy-five-percent oak moss base 1 explicit 112 I would start with a woody moss base ... with a seventy-five percent oak moss. I would start with a woody moss base ... with a seventy-five percent oak moss.
emoxyfurone Chemical compound Spicy effect 1 explicit 112 I would add emoxyfurone until you get just that spicy effect I would add emoxyfurone until you get just that spicy effect
dipropylene glycol Diluent 1 explicit 112 Oh, well, normally I use dipropylene glycol. Oh, well, normally I use dipropylene glycol.
acetophenones Pale and light-scented, with a puny, delicate orangy scent. 1 explicit 113 the puny delicate orangy scent of the acetophenone the puny delicate orangy scent of the acetophenone
sila compounds Sila compounds Light-scented. 1 explicit 113 instead of pale acetophenones or light-scented sila compounds instead of pale acetophenones or light-scented sila compounds
hydrogen atoms Hydrogen Atoms; isotope-test substrate 1 explicit 113 wrench out all the Hydrogen atoms wrench out all the Hydrogen atoms
deuteriums Deuterium Hydrogen isotope 1 explicit 113 screw in Deuteriums instead screw in Deuteriums instead
Decaborane-D14 Fully deuterated decaborane; deuterated decaborane; deuterated decaborane isotopes Fully deuterated decaborane isotope Expected not to smell of sulfur; Burshetsky initially said it smelled like normal decaborane, but the laboratory later reported that it smelled completely different. Turin confirmed that it did not smell of sulfur. 1 explicit 114 They put the deuterated decaborane in front of him, the isotope that shouldn’t smell of Sulfur. It was poison. He lifted it and, very briefly, took a sniff. It didn’t smell of Sulfur. They put the deuterated decaborane in front of him, the isotope that shouldn’t smell of Sulfur. It was poison. He lifted it and, very briefly, took a sniff. It didn’t smell of Sulfur.
deuterodecaborane B10D14; fully deuterated equivalent of decaborane deuterated borane Smells very different from decaborane. Boron-deuterium vibrations are contrasted with boron-hydrogen vibrations shifted from about 2500 to about 1800 cm-1. 1 explicit 115 It smells very different from decaborane. Thus we can smell isotope replacement, in which Shape remains identical but Vibration changes. It smells very different from decaborane. Thus we can smell isotope replacement, in which Shape remains identical but Vibration changes.
ethylmaltol Candy-floss note. Vanilia by L’Artisan Parfumeur 1 explicit 115 L’Artisan Parfumeur was first to associate vanilla and the candy-floss note of ethylmaltol in Vanilia L’Artisan Parfumeur was first to associate vanilla and the candy-floss note of ethylmaltol in Vanilia
coffee named natural odor material Used as a scent note; no further description is given. L’Eau du Navigateur by L’Artisan Parfumeur 1 explicit 115 first to use coffee in L’Eau du Navigateur first to use coffee in L’Eau du Navigateur
hydrogen ion H+; capitalized as “Hydrogen ion” in the text ion 1 explicit 115 you can just replace a Hydrogen ion with a Sodium ion with only a small increase in energy. you can just replace a Hydrogen ion with a Sodium ion with only a small increase in energy.
sodium ion Na+; capitalized as “Sodium ion” in the text ion 1 explicit 115 you can just replace a Hydrogen ion with a Sodium ion with only a small increase in energy. you can just replace a Hydrogen ion with a Sodium ion with only a small increase in energy.